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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
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after having just installed a new coil, distributor, points, plugs, plug cables, and new wiring to the generator, my truck ran fine.

tonight while running an errand, my 235 kept trying (and in some cases succeeding) to shut off. an initial inspection shows a slight fuel leak from between the top and middle of my rochester carb. the mixture was adjusted to just slightly leaner than the initial rebuild setting. (1 and 1/2 turns out)

when i installed the new distributor, i had set the timing (with the advance off) to 8 Deg BTDC. I was told originally that at my altitude (about 5500'ASL) my engine would run best between 5-10 Deg.

The last two days, it has run almost perfectly. until now.

The symptoms of tonight included the following:
1.) Stalling, 2.)trouble starting, 3.) some backfiring at one point, 4.) having to pull the choke to keep the engine running, 5.)having to rev the engine higher than normal to take off from a light.

from looking at these symptoms, i am still thinking its one of three things: timing, incorrect float adjustment, or faulty advance?

this is the only truck i have to get around with, and i need to keep it alive and running. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

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Hy hombremosqa, it sounds like it is running lean, could be low float level, or smegma in the carb passages, pull the carb apart and check the adjustments and clean it out, and put another filter in front of it, hope that helps.

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'Bolter
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Blow back into the tank first, may be a blockage,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

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carb was just rebuilt, i forgot to mention. all galleys, and seals were replaced. i have just replaced the fuel filter as well.

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Points might of slipped. Check setting or advance.Did you put in a new condenser?
62Blue
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yes new condenser and they are still gapped at .016

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This is a strange question, but is there a bushing or bearing inside the distributor hole? i feel some play in the installation.
i was told that this could be a possible cause and could be throwing my timing off?

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I think 48bigtrucks nailed it and the problem is crud stuck in the valve at the bottom of the gas tank. Seen that one many, many times.


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
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well, i pulled the sending unit out last night to install a new seal, and i cleaned the mesh netting at the suction tube. its clear so i dunno what could be stuck in there....

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I would check the fuel pump for both volume and pressure.Crank the engine with the fuel line to carb off and see how much gas is pumped into a can(volume).You will need at least 3-4 lbs of pressure(check with a gauge) and look at the condition of the fuel in the can(rust,water,sludge,dead bodies??).While you have the line off,run the carb dry by running the fuel into a can and the engine running until it stalls out.Reconnect the line and start it up.The rush of new fuel will flush any crud out of the needle and seat.Hope this helps.


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i will try this. this morning, as i drove it to my mom's, i idled pretty fine, but when taking off, its like im flooding the carb if i hit the gas too hard

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Originally Posted by Curt B.
I think 48bigtrucks nailed it and the problem is crud stuck in the valve at the bottom of the gas tank. Seen that one many, many times.

I take that back as I ASSumed you had an older truck with the fuel supply coming out the bottom. Here's some carb troubleshooting info that may be of use:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/carb/UM900/abc15.htm


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
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thanks curt, i will take a look at this again today. does anyone know anything about that bushing in the distributor hole? also, is there anyone that make a replacement vacuum advance unit?

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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What year is your engine? You first post says you have a 235.

Do you have a bushing in the distributor hole in your engine's block?

If you have a 216/235/261, several vendors sell a reproduction vacuum advance unit for 37-62 engines. It is not an exact reproduction, a pivot post has to be drilled out and you have to you your existing pivot screw.


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the reason i ask about a bushing, is that the distributor feels like it has waaaaaaayyyy too much play in it. i figured with the amount of swiveling it does due to the vacuum advance, its only a matter of time before the hole widens due to this friction. am i wrong? what could it be that i am feeling when i wiggle it. its not much, but enough to notice...


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