The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Pitman and Steering Arm Upgrades for a 1946 3/4

Are there any pitman and steering arm upgrades for my 1946 Chevrolet 3/4 ton pickup?

Oldtruck,
Sorry did not see your post prior to mine... still bushed I guess.
Anyway, I been looking as well at tech tips and such. Will let you know if I see anything workable. How long is your drag link and I assume it is ball/socket type as well.
Cavebull

Oldtruck,
Following up, American Classic has 1/2 and 3/4 tons listed together on tie rods and drag link ends, and one drag link number for 37' to 46' with no designation on 1/2 or 3/4.
Might be same length and same type of mod will work to replace the OE with modern like Jim n Caroline did on the Tech Tip.
Cavebull

You could ... DO this
it was written for an AD but it would work for you

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html
don't forget to weld on the big nuts onto your tie rod ends about 2'' in from the threads

I think that kit was made for a 1/2 ton truck

Question for anyone while we are on pitman arms. The ball is facing inboard on my 46'and there is about 1/2" of spline showing inboard on the steering box shaft as well. Everything I see seems to have it facing outward. Even the pict in the Jim's tech tips show the final modified tie rod ends outboard. Is a steering box shaft and pitman arm a tappered fit? Need to make sure the PO did not have it off and put back on backwards? Maybe the reason for the exposed splines? Does anybody know which way it goes so I get it right when I re-install?
Thanks,
Cavebull

simply just source the correct length and dia. WHAT-EVER for 3/4TON or 1T, or 1-1/2T

Jim or others,
Anyone had to shorten the threads on the rod when installing the new model tie rod ends? I have spread them a bit, chased the threads, and added grease but they are only half way there for proper toe in. I am holding off on cheating with pipe wrench/vise grips, as I want to weld the nuts to the rod (per Jim's suggestion)to prevent marring, especially in the future. Use of a wrench may thread them "home" where the hands won't.
Anyway, has anyone run them in without triming a 1/2" off both ends?
Cavebull

cavebull,
on my 51, the pitman arm spline is definitely tapered. In addition, there was about the same 1/2" exposed when mine was home. I wondered at the time too.

Hey Truckernix,
Thanks for the followup. Funny, I started to slide it back on today to check my new drag link mock up. Was not paying attention, attempted to put it on "backwards", and found out it goes on one way only due to the taper. Then, taking a second to look at it, realized that even if it would go on bckwards it would not cycle as the arm would ride under the frame. Sometimes I'm such a maroon.
Cavebull

Cavebull, I installed the new tie rod ends on a threaded rod I had made. I use it for a adjustable drag link. I had NOS tie rod ends before and found one was bad. I bought two new ones from American Classis and found them to be about 1/2" or more longer then the NOS ends. I wouldn't be surprised if they need cut, I think over the years they combined some years and the parts became generic. Joe

Thanks Joe,
It won't really be an issue if I do need to trim a couple threads off the ends or not as they threaded into the original TRE's about 2 plus inches per end. It will still leave me enough to go back to the OEM when I get around to it.
Just never been mentioned.
Brett

Well, I have posted the pics of my front end steering mod project (OE tie rod & pitman arm removal and modern replacements).
First "hats off" goes to Jim and his drag link tech tip on here. I came out with different part numbers than Jim for the pitman arm pieces, but as he advised "simply just source the correct length and dia." I did just that from Car Quest (no NAPA in my area). NOTE: make sure they are left and right threads so they can lengthen and shorten by turning the sleeve and not having to remove studs from the pitman arm and steering link. The other thing I did was took the pitman arm and steering link along with me to the FLAPS to make sure the tapper was correct and no reaming would be required.
Second "hats off" goes to Jim for the nut idea on the tie rod arm to help with adjustment. Jim never said how many nuts to weld in, so I went with 2, passenger side and drivers. I question whether my welding is better looking than vice grip marks, but I can finish a bit more - this is just a mock up.
I will gradually put descriptions in but they are loaded under steering.
Thanks for all the advice and assistance,
Brett
Oh, if you have advice on how to repair the broken column (see pic) as always open for suggestions.

'''' on my 51, the pitman arm spline is definitely tapered. '''''
the tech article says ....
After I removed the old ends, I welded two 3/4’’ nuts about two inches in from the ends of the threaded portion of the tie rod, so adjustment / turning is easier, foregoing the vise grip marks commonly found here.
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=DSC00486_0014.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=DSC00490_0010.jpg

my 51 does NOT have a taper pitman. it has a straight spline and the pitman arm ONLY fits one way as there is one wider section on the splines.

Brett,
a BIG thanks for the cheer, it was fun to think about the way in which to do the mod and show others who keep their stock front ends and MAKE it a better ride and more user friendly. By being user friendly insures keeping them on the road & happy.

yes i did weld a big nut one for each side. it's kinda hard to show both nuts in a detailed photo of a long rod. maybe what you can do is add to my tech article and we'll get hold of peg and add an addendum showing this mod can accomodate many other years. include more pics for the tech article too.

that's a GREAT JOB and nice pics