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Joined: Mar 2005
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Anybody running disc brakes without vacuum boost / power assist?

I'm swapping my '51 half ton to 11" discs on the front, using the kit from CPP. Would I be NUTS to use a manual master cylinder, instead of power brakes? CPP does sell a manual cylinder (4756MMK2). This is $100 or so cheaper than their boosted kit, looks like a simpler install, and I wouldn't have to worry about the booster failing (ever), or vacuum levels if I decide to install a wicked cam in my V8.

Thanks,
mark.

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I got the same kit and no booster. Mine stops fine. I only have a slightly hopped up 235 in it though. There are a couple of pics in my webshots. Night and day diff from the old drum brakes. Good luck

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Shipwright,

That is good to hear. I also have that setup. My truck is a ways from being on the road and it is nice to see the parts being used successfully.

Bill Schickling


Bill Schickling

1940 1/2 ton, 1940 3/4 ton
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I'm running disk with no power booster on my '55 1st GMC. It stops just fine.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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Running disks on the front of my 41 and from 70 mph it stops like a dream. Do go with the dual master cylinder in the event of a brake failure you will not loose them all.


"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real"
"Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe"
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Does anybody know how big a difference is it between the two? and is there a possible cost difference? and what is the major difference between the two?
I'll go read up on this.


Gooday
Jim

small wheel moves by fire and rod,
big wheel fires by the grace of god,
everytime that wheel turns round,
bound to cover just a little more ground.
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I am in the process of installing the manual kit now in tha original place of the old mc under the floor(to keep the originality)and the only reason I didn't go with the booster is because ccp told me that the clutch pedal would not work with the booster in that location. I would have to be mounted on the firewall and I didn't want that. Goodluck

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Shipwright, enjoyed your pictures and have a question about the mc under tha floor. Did you have to install a 2lb valve for the front and a 10lb for the back (along with the prop. valve)? Something else I was reading about that was suppose to keep the "spongeee feel" off of your pedal because of the mc being lower than the wheel cylinders. CPP didnt say anything about this but i found it in another companys book, hot rod brakes or something like that. Thanx

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bowtiesr4me, The Compination/Proportioning valve that CCP sells is supposed to have all this built in. I didn't have to install any other valves. Seems to work fine. The pedal could be a little firmer but I am used to it. I think I just need to bleed them a little more. I did notice that when I really push on the pedal, the braket holding the master cyl. flexes slightly giving me that spongy pedal feel. But it it not bad at all. I may try to weld another braket/ brace to keep everything sturdy and solid. Good Luck.

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i have a 50 pu with a 350/350. I put a dual master cyl in the stock location with no power boost for the must2 disc brake set up. it does take more pedal effort than my 39 Pontiac coupe with a sub frame and power disc brake set up, but its ok. I don't think my 110 lb wife would stop it very easily though. (if I ever let her drive it. HA)

Roy


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