The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop engine, trans and rearend swap 1950 truck

hey guys, I am new to this rodding stuff. I just bought a 1950 chevy truck. I want to find out what v8 engine, trans and rearend will fit this truck. I do not want to modify extensivly, but I do know that some work will need to be done.I want to go v8 and make it a nice truck. any info on the combo will be appreciated greatly!

Mine is a 55 2nd series.I am running a 350 Chevy engine,700R4 tranny,and stock 3:90 rear.It is one sweet ride.The 350 and 700R4 will fit in just about anything including your 50.As far as rearends go you will have to change it out if it has the stock rear in it,due to the closed driveshaft setup.There are many aftermarket motor mounts,trans.mounts ,etc.for these swaps.I dont know what rears will fit up to your 50,for tire clearance,etc.A couple guys around here are running Ford 9 inch rears in their ADs.If you use the 700R4 which is an overdrive tranny,you can run 3:90s,or even 4;11s.If you go with a 350 or 400 turbo,I would think 3:42s,or 3:08s would be a good ratio.

Chevy 50,

The easiest rear end swap for you would be to get a 1955 1st series rear end. This is an open drive shaft rear end and can be used with whatever engine trans combo you pick. The 1955 1st is a bolt in replacement. Before that it was closed drive shaft (Torque tube) and after that the spring perches are different.

The only problem with the 1955 1st series is it was only a 6 month poduction run and they are getting harder to find.

If you don't mind welding on spring perches, you can buy an axle swapping kit from places like cpp and put just about anything back there.

The 1955 1st is a 3.90 rear end.

Bill Schickling

I always want to ask what a 'nice truck' means to you. For some guys that's a trophy winning show truck, for others its a truck that is pleasant to drive every day, and for others its something different or inbetween.

As you listen to responses remember the guy answering may have a different idea of nice truck than what you do.

I think you'll be happier with the outcome if you've spent a little time thinking about how you'll use the truck, how much work you are willing or able to do yourself, and how much money you can or are willing to spend.

While you can shoehorn a Chevy smallblock under the hood with little prep, you will find a few issues make it more complicated. The steering column and box are where your exhaust manifold wants to be. The crossmember holding up the rear of the motor (under the bellhousing) will interfere with almost any automatic transmission. That's the first two that come to mind, there are others.

More important is that more power is likely to mean more speed. The aged stock brakes were not designed for the speeds the truck will now be capable of.

I'd suggest taking a few minutes to write down how you want to use the truck, and then think through how that impacts the various systems. Then turn that into a plan.

Last time I went through this exercise I dropped some of my ideas because the truck was getting too expensive. But now when I see something at a swap meet, I know if it fits the plan and budget or not.

When I see something cool that doesn't fit the plan I like to buy it anyway and set it aside for the next project. Seems to work well for me, I have five projects and have found a candidate for number six...

Great advice Steve. Too often restorers will collect a bunch of parts without a total plan. Look at the big picture and determain if it is within you're ability range and budget before proceeding otherwise your project will never get finished. A very nice driver which can be accomplished with minimal expense is a 235 engine and a Patricks 3.55 rear. If you want to spend another $1000 you could add a Saginaw 4 speed trans.

I remember when Saginaw 4-speeds were hard to give away...

Patricks wants $300 or so for the shifter and the kit to make it work with a torque tube is more. I'd probably choose then to swap to open drive rather than re-gearing the original.

That does sound like a nice driver.

hey guys, thanks for all the info so far! I would like to know what type of rear ends will fit under the 50 and still run with the traffic, 70 or 75 mph. also could anyone tell me what will be invovled with putting a v8 in this truck.this will not be a show truck. thanks in advance!!

Here is one more option. In my 46 1/2 ton I swapped out the center pumpkin for one from an open driveline 56 1/2 ton. The pumpkin will bolt right in to the old housing. I then welded in new solid type spring perches. It worked good for me because I kept my old housing and the e-brake stayed. I also kept 6 lug all around. The pumpkin from the 56 had 3:38 gears. I'm running a 283 with a TH350 and it has held up fine so far.

Running 70-75 does not require a V-8. You need to start with the size tires you want to run, then choose rear gears that will allow you to run that speed at a comfortable engine RPM.

I have the rear from a '73 Chevelle wagon with 3.08 gears under mine. I can easily run 75+ with my six. A V-8 would easily do the same with those gears.

I am pretty new to the 47 to 54 trucks so this might sound like a dumb question-- how fast does the engine, trany and suspension on a stock truck let you go down the highway comfortably?

Curly,

That again would depend alot on the gearing in the rear-end.

You didn't mention what type of truck you had, whether it's a 1/2 ton or bigger. The 3/4 ton and larger had different gears, and would result in slower speeds.

There also seems to be a difference in results between a stocck 216 and a stock 235.

My stock 52, (235) with 4:11 gears will run pretty comfortably between 50 - 55ish.

My stock 46, (216) with the same rear-end is pretty comfortable just under 50.

My other 52, with a 250 I-6 and stock 4:11's will run between 55-60.

These are all 1/2 tons, and have the same gearing, but each one has a different motor type. There's not a significant difference between them but there is some.

Don't they make a gear swap for the rear end?

I seem to remember reading somebody sold a kit you can put in the exsisting rear end to give you better "top" speeds.

Fumblin,

Probably the most common conversion is sold by Patrick's. It will take you down to a 3:55 and supposedly allows you to run highway speeds at a comfortable RPM.

If I remember correctly, the ring and pinion run about $400.00. Another $300.00 for their installation kit.

A recent thread suggests that while it isn't real difficult, it should not be undertaken by your average backyard mechanic. There are also some special tools/equipment required.