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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,181 Posts1,057,180 Members48,465 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 | I spent a lot of money almost 2 years ago to have my truck painted. The idea was the painter would paint everything in pieces, I'd put the truck together and then he would wet sand/ buff and fix any scratches that I may have put in the paint during assembly.
In the time it has taken me to assemble the truck, the painter has somewhat disappeared. Not quite out of business, but not trustworthy enough to give my truck to him either.
Now I'm stuck with a dull shine and a few good scratches in the paint. What do I do?! I'm afraid to hit the paint with wet sandpaper and buffer myself and I can't afford to take it to another painter. Should I use some rubbing compound and wax the truck? Should I just wax it? It needs something to bring out the shine in the new paint.
Thanks for any insite. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 | Well, buffing isn't easy for a beginner, but it's probably the only way you'll get a good shine. Save up your money and try to find a body man to do it as a side job possibly. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Why not just take it to someone else? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 | Because someone else wants more money. The piggy bank is empty, especially for another half-wit painter. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Color sanding/buffing can be tricky...as I've just found out! I just 'rubbed through' on my fresh painted firewall Get it wrong and you're back to square one! Can you wait 'till "Piggy" puts on a little weight?  Honestly though,it might be better to take it to a good bodyshop to get their opinion and quote to rectify your problem. Just my 2c Jock. 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 | Thank, Jock. I feel your pain. I did that on my daily driver a a few years ago. Hense the reason I haven't taken the buffer to my truck yet.
I think my only option is to wait until little piggie fattens up. I was curious if there is anything I could do for now to protect the paint. Would it hurt to put a coat of wax on it?
I have a meeting this afternoon right near a body shop. Maybe I'll stop in and talk to them. Maybe they are slow right now and can tinker with it. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Usually a pro is the only one who can (or should) do the color sanding/buffing with a power tool. Do it carefully by hand and avoid sanding much near edges, Do a Google search on [i]automotive color sanding[/i] and you will find good techniques and advice. I did this by hand with a pro-friend on my first paint just (54 Suburban) and had no problems. It took three of us an 8-hour day to get it done. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 | Thanks, tclederman. I'll look around at that info. I'll definitely have to stay away from the edges as the painter didn't even cover them with paint. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 80 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 80 | From looking at your photos, it almost looks like base coat that hasn't been cleared. If that's the case, no amount of sanding and buffing would produce an acceptable shine. If it indeed a single stage(non cleared) color ,I would lightly scuff it with 1000 grit and apply two or three good coats of urethane clear. Then you would have sufficient film build to allow color sanding and buffing without fear of rub through. I use a 1500 grit followed by a 3000 grit on the DA and then proceed to buff with a machine . polishing compound. To protect peaks and style lines,apply a strip of masking tape
before doing any sanding or buffing. Good luck!
Last edited by Wally Body; 02/12/2009 3:34 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 | I'm pretty sure the paint is a 2 stage paint because the interior of the truck and anywhere it wasn't absolutely necessary, did not receive clear coat and is a dull sandy finish.
From our original agreement, the painter was going to put several coats of paint and at least 4 coats of clear. I stopped by a local shop yesterday. He looked at a couple spots where I've scratched it and said he'd be surprised if the painter put more than one coat of each on there. Lovely. I guess you live and learn.
They mechanic gave me the name of a body guy he knows who may be able to help me out. Let's see how much this is going to cost. :-) | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 | From our original agreement, the painter was going to put several coats of paint and at least 4 coats of clear. :-) Well, that right there tells me your painter had no clue what he was doing. 3 coats of clear is plenty- more than enough to wet sand and buff. Maybe a couple times. Several coats of paint? No way. Just enough base coat that everything is covered well. When you get too much filler, too much primer, too much base coat, and too much clear, you're going to have problems.
Last edited by oldcarandtrucknut; 02/12/2009 4:26 PM.
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