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#499782 01/31/2009 12:58 AM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 48
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
R Offline
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 48
OK, here is where I am at so far: All of the truck has been sanded with 80 grit. 50% of that has been sanded again with 150 grit. Where the paint stops and the bare metal starts it has been sanded with 360 grit. When you look at the truck as it sits right now, you will see mostly old tan paint ( 1984 ish enamel paint ), some bond-o areas that are ready to be primed, about 3 or so square feet of area that is bare metal, a few spots that have been coverd in NAPA grey sandable primer, and a few spots that have been sprayed with DupliColor Red sandable primer. Everything ( All transition edges from paint to primer / metal ) is glass smooth. My question is, I have 3/4 of a gallon of 2K primer sitting here in the shop. Can I use it over all of that or will it go funky on me? The final paint will be Enamel (tractor paint) with a high gloss hardner added to it.

If this will not work, what kind of primer do I need to use to spray the whole truck? ( I want to spray it with our paint gun. Not a bunch of spray cans.) Also, we will be puting down a sealer prior to painting. ( If that matters)


tp://s367.photobucket.com/albums/oo113/RED64STEPSIDE/
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 425
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 425
First, you need to check the spec. sheet for that primer to see what substrates it is compatible with and what top coats you can spray on it. But before you spray any good primer over the truck, you need to get the rattle can primer crap off of it completely. Maybe call the local paint shop where the primer came from, or where you plan on buying the enamel for the specs.

Joined: Nov 2008
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 48
Originally Posted by oldcarandtrucknut
Maybe call the local paint shop where the primer came from, or where you plan on buying the enamel for the specs.

Well, since it will be Massey tractor paint, I will be selling the paint to myself! Sadly though, I do not, or had not, had to deal with this when I use it to repaint a tractor. I just scuff the surface of the tractor with 80, then 150 grit, and shoot the enamel straight onto the old paint. Any bare metal spots was coverd with NAPA's grey sandable primer before the paint went on. Never gave me a moments problem before. But like I said, this is on a truck and is a whole different ballgame. I WILL take your advice and remove all the other primers though!

Ultimately, I think I will take the 2 old doors I am replacing, and use them as a test bed before shooting the truck with anything!!


tp://s367.photobucket.com/albums/oo113/RED64STEPSIDE/
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 425
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 425
You can probably find the specs. online for the primer, and that will tell you everything you need to know.

Joined: Oct 2006
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Master Gabster
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You need to add ht to your photobucket link. It should read:
http://s367.photobucket.com/albums/oo113/RED64STEPSIDE/ not
tp://s367.photobucket.com/albums/oo113/RED64STEPSIDE/


~Jim
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6
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New Guy
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Joined: Apr 2007
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With out knowing what primer you have i will make a suggestion. I would look into a waterborn primer as a barrier coat. When a catalyzed primer such as a 2k comes in contact with dried out old enamel it is very likely to wrinkle and when that happens you will end up redoing any bodywork in that area as well as feather edging alot of wrinkled up primer. If you want to experiment on your old doors try sanding thru the paint and apply one very light coat of primer (just enough to achieve light coverage) and let it dry then scuff that and prime normally over top. By doing this you will limit the amount of solvent that can attack the old paint. You may be able to skate by using this method.


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