Just finished assembling my 261 and wanted to share a tip on connecting Rod Bolts.

Rod Bolts for the 235 and 261 are hard to find and expensive. My machinist checked the specs and discovered that the connecting rod bolts for 235/261 (and maybe even 216, though he didn't check) are exactly the same length and diameter as those used on a big block chevy. Only one small modification is required and which should be done at your machine shop before you get your rods and pistons balanced:

The heads of the bolts on the outside edge need to be ground at an angle/chamfered to look like the original bolt heads. The grinding should happen when the new bolts are in the connecting rod and should be done BEFORE the balancing, although each rod bolt loses less than a gram.

If you don't do this, after you assemble the engine you'll discover that the rod bolt heads hit the flat spots between the lobes of your cam which are there for the original chamfered rod bolts to get past.

It is NO problem to grind the bolt heads the little bit that is required and is very common to do when building a 'stroker' engine. Grinding the bolt heads the little bit necessary will not compromise the integrity of the bolts.

Rod bolts and nuts should always be replaced when rebuilding and the Bolts/Nuts from a big block are lots cheaper then getting 235/261 bolts from someone who probably bought big block bolts and ground them before marking them up and selling them to you.

'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi