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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 86 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 86 | I'm trying to remove the rear drums on my '59 Viking 60. The drum and hub look like they are one piece. Is the drum separate from the hub? After backing off the shoes and removing the screws, I beat on it for a while but it doesn't seem to want to budge. What is the best way to get it loose? Hit it harder? All ideas welcome.
Matt
"Brunhilde II" '59 Viking 60
To paraphrase Ben Franklin: "Big Bolts are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy"
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | The drum does separate. May need to soak it with some PB Blaster or Kroil to break the rus loose. Als, amke sure the adjusters are backed off.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 | This is where dynomite comes in handy. If it weren't for the rust between the drum and the flange which has seemed to weld these two parts together the drum would move.
Try smacking the face side of the drum to jar it enough to break loose along with soaking it.
Dan
Remember your freedom - US Veterans provided it.
101st Screaming Eagles
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 | Penetrating fluid and heat...and a BF Hammer | | |
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