The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts whats this called

http://s427.photobucket.com/albums/pp359/oldwestrnwear/?action=view&current=scan0038.jpg what is this part called and can i replace it with harden number 8 bolts where the rivits are

Hy Perry Dean, that is a spring hanger/bracket, grade 8 bolts would probably be overkill for this job, grade 5 should be fine. If possible try not to have any bolt threads inside the holes in the bracket or the frame, you may have to buy longer bolts and cut them down [longer bolts have a non threaded area just under the head], use "stover" lock nuts on the bolts, hope that helps.

Appears to be the spring hanger. Never saw one that worn before. But, I am unsure of the Grade 8 bolt fix. I would think that bolts would be just as strong as rivets.

thanks guys thats just what i wanted to hear im gona take old ones off a 62 and put on a 63 they look the same thanks agin

i used grade 5 bolts on my 67 c-40 spring hangers when i rebuilt the hangers 4 years ago no problems

thanks im gona try it

when you have it off. you should weld up that bad crack. It looks to have had alot of stress at one point or it is brittle. It is hard to tell in the picture.

good luck. By the way. Don't use regular stainless steel bolts as they will not be rated for it. Unless you can verify their rating.

im not sure what crack there is im replaceing the shackles with ones from a 1962 c60 to replace the ones that are wore throught il use #8 harden steel bolts to replace the riviets http://s427.photobucket.com/albums/pp359/oldwestrnwear/?action=view&current=scan0033.jpg

Tensile strength on a bolt is the the amout of "pull" it takes to pull ( break ) the bolt apart, its not for shear as with spring hangers, a grade 8 bolt will break before a grade 5 in a shear application, the 5 will stretch and give long before breaking, but with the hanger having a lip under the frame flange it isn't going anywhere gr 5 will work. Neither is as strong as a rivet, especially if it is a hot rivet you may have to drill it completly out if it was hot, to remove it, Spanky may know if GM used a hot rivet.

Yes, GM Used hot Rivits on many trucks. I have a 35 chevy and my 53 Gmc used them.

You can get them if you really look. There is some heavy duty truck shops that have the rivits and tools to install them. My local shop has the tools and will lend them out to those they know. I have used them on the 35. and look correct vrs. the modern bolts. But, that is only if you are looking for a point or two. Most building a driver will not need to worry.

That grade 5 bolt and nut will work just fine.

The Crack I was talking about was in the picture. It looks like there is a crack in the middle? but, you say you are replacing it so, I guess it don't matter.

thanks guys that is very helpful info much thanks

That poor truck has had a very hard life!! I bet the spring eye bushing (where the bolt goes through)is real bad for that spring to ride high enough to wear out the shackle/spring hanger.

Just for giggles, since I'm a nerd:
That looks like you'll be using about a 7/16" diameter bolt,
grade 5 bolts are rated at 150,000psi (tensile)
grade 8 bolts are rated at 180,000psi (tensile)
Maximum allowable shear stress is approximately half the tensile strengh.
G5max = 75,000 psi shear
G8max = 90,000 psi shear
Area of 7/16 bolt is (pi)*(.21875^2)= 0.150 sq. in.
Maximum Shear Force allowed on a 7/16 G5 bolt is 11,250 Lbs.
Now if you assume that the load you're carrying is evenly distributed in the bed, and you have five G5 bolts on each side, for a total of ten - You THEORETICALLY should be able to carry 112,500 Lbs in the back of your stovebolt. (just based on the spring hanger, which is probably not the weakest link).

Of course we also know that bolts usually do not fail in pure shear, just as they don't fail in pure tension, or torque - but usually a combination of all three! That's why we want to use a factor of safety of about 6...
All this nonsense to say - hey, use those grade five bolts and feel confident!
Bluedawg
BTW, a fine thread fastener is stronger than a coarse thread fastener, so if you have any doubt, go with the fine thread.

ummmm thanks for that useful info bluedawg i will use it BTW does your head hurt knowing all that lol THANKS

im afraid it has had the crap run out of it befor i got it iv only hauled 269tons of dirt with it so far but im gona make its life better with some rebuilding and tender loven care