The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Ready to start the de-rusting process

I'm ready to get started on the de-rusting process for my '49 but I have a question or two about how to go about it.

The first thing I'm going to start on is the front axle and springs because they're relatively small and I can manage them on my own (and they're in the back of my other truck already). Anyway, I was thinking of using the Eastwood rust converter, encapsulator and then the chassis black instead of getting all the pieces blasted and powder coated. My goal in the restoration - not a museum piece but something that I can use (fairly carefully), take to shows several times a year but it won't be a daily driver. My questions are:

Does this process hold up in the long run? I've heard good things but haven't seen it in person.

How far do I have to take the axle down to do this? The PO put in new king pins so I'd rather not take those out but will if necessary.

How picky are these products in this process? There's grease around the king pins and spindle that I'll be cleaning off but do I need to make it sparkle?

If there are other things that you feel would be helpful in this process, please include in your reply.

Thanks in advance.

What you expect from the finished project?

Some guys completely disassemble everything, take it down to bare metal and end up with a factory fresh part, others (like me) do their best to clean all the crud off, repair what needs it and repaint, others just fix what's broken and drive it. Each is the "correct" way because each owner has their own goals.

Decide what you want your truck to be when you're finished and then act accordingly.

Personally, I use the Eastwood Rust Converter and Encapsulator and find each to be very user friendly. The Encapsulator is lacquer based, clean up is simple and what you don't use you can store for next time.

I prefer Rustolium Satin Black over chassis black. It's easy to find, inexpensive and looks great, and it's inexpensive. Did I say it's inexpensive?

My best advice to someone starting out is:

1. Take a TON of photos of each thing you do so that later you'll have a better idea of how it goes back together.

2. Stay organized. Complete each part and store it in an organized fashion so that when it comes time to reassemble you'll be able to find things and it will be like assembling a kit.

3. Enjoy the journey. Do no impose a deadline on yourself, just do what needs to be done and when you're finished, you're finished. Remember that a big project is just a series of small projects strung together.

4. Ask questions but do your research first. Learn how to search for things here before asking, but do ask! People here are willing to help but do your part first.

Number 3 from above is the best advice that one could give. I didn't set a time table and I really enjoyed the journey. There is great satisfaction to be gained doing each little sub job just the way you want it. As you go along you will learn more about how to do things. I tried to be patient and some parts I waited many months to see them turn up on Ebay. Enjoy, enjoy!

One big thing is to make sure the part to be painted is CLEAN, no grease or crud left on it. Rust is O.K. if you're using an encapsulator or rustoleum. A good job will last as long as you do.

Number 2.. use ziplock bags and a sharpie to mark them

To take surface rust off I use a brass wire wheel. Then take Denatured alcohol and clean the part.

For parts that get hot (engine parts) I use Ace hardware BBQ black paint as a primer usually 3 coats. Then use Rustoleum Hammered finish in black. Results are really nice.

If the kingpins were just installed they can probably still be easily removed. Then you can properly clean and paint the parts. Just leave the bushings alone and slip it all back together once painted, you're not "undoing" any previous work, only disassembling and then reassembling.

Grigg