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| | | Forums66 Topics128,147 Posts1,056,801 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 |  I am looking at lowering my 1957 3100 a little the ole skool way. I understand the correct way to ride low is either a mustang II package or doing a subframe but that is just not in the budget at this time. I've seen trucks with straight axle fronts lowered by removing some leafs (I realize there is a limit to keep from bottoming out). I have heard to lower the rear you can block it or remove leafs. I would like to know what is the limit (inches) on the front and rear that can be obtained and what springs must be removed to accomplish this. Any help from you guys that have done this would be greatly appreciated or other suggestions that I do not know about would really be cool. ole skool trucks  | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | I didn't know "the correct way to ride low is either a mustang II package or doing a subframe", and with a handle like Ole Skool Trucks I would think you would truly want to be old school. In my opinion, the "correct" way to be old school is with a dropped axle. You can get 3" or more instantly with a dropped axle and you can remove leafs to bring it down even more. Check in the members list and find RATRODKING, he has a truck just like yours with a dropped axle. Read some of his posts for more info on what he did to lower his in the front and back.
If you just want a 2" or so drop, go with a monoleaf spring set, or remove 2 or 3 of the shorter leafs out of your front spring pack. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | The rear can be lowered with longer shackles. My '56 only had 4 leaves in the rear when I got it and the springs bowed. I replaced them with 6. I wouldn't recommend less than 5. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 | First thing that came to my mind- Let all the air out of all the tires and it is free... Sorry. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 | Waldo53, that truck of yours is absolutely beautiful! If I could wish for a truck from the bolter God it would be that one. I dig your hub caps and white walls. That original seat and frame don't get any better. Now to the motor...gotta love those triple carbs! The stance on your truck is exactly what I am looking for..."perfect". I really would like to know all the details of your truck. Rearend, transmission, motor build, carbs,manifold etc. That is the way I would like to build my 50 or 53. I was checking on a drop axle recently and talked to Sids drop axles. I got a little concerned when he started talking about heating parts up and bending them. I would really like to know were all your parts came from and exactly how you did it. I am into ole skool but my comment was that from what I hear you will never get the ride and performance out of a straight axle that you can get with IFS. Also, the swap nets you out disks brakes. I agree with your comment that straight axle drop is the way to stay back in time. Thanks for your comments, ole skool trucks  | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 | Virginiafiretruck, already thought about loading the bed with bricks but I kinda like the air trick....cause those old trucks look good setting still and I would save a ton on gas!
thanks ole skool trucks | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 | thanks for the info cletis. I am going to try removing a few springs and see what I get. Do you have a pic of your shackles mouted? thanks for your comments ole skool trucks  | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | Ole Skool: Thank you for the kind comments. I see you've got quite a stable of 'bolts to choose from.
I'm running one of Sid's 3" axles with 3 leafs removed from the spring pack in front. Yes, there is some heating and bending to be done but all in all a much simpler job than a 'stang or a subframe. I flipped my tie rod using new ends from Chevs of the '40's. Also shortened my pitman arm and drag link as per the photos. I'm using a 3:08 rear end from a '69 1/2 ton, T-5 out of an S-10. I built the tri-carb setup is using the stock intake manifold. The rear end on an AD is pretty simple, you can use lowering blocks and remove a couple of leafs to get it down. Rides better too.
Keep us posted on your projects.
Oh, and on your '57 check out RATRODKING posts. He goes into detail on his modifications. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 6 | FWIW: I removed (5) leaves from the rear of my 56 1/2 ton, this left (3) leaves in place, and dropped the rear bumper 5 inches. Which was more than I was looking for as the front axle is the original and I know I can't get enough drop up front to match the 5 inches at the rear. So, I put (2) leaves back into each side at the rear, this makes for (5) leaves per side at the rear. This yielded a (2) inch drop from original, which was what I wanted in the first place. I well be messing with the front leaves this weekend and will post results as I get them. Regards, Just plain ray | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,082 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,082 | hello ole skool trucks. here is a pic of my 57 3100 with a sids 3 inch front axle with 1 leaf removed from the front, and 4 of the original 7 leafs removed, leaving 3 leafs, in the back. http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view¤t=DSC01704.jpgas waldo53 stated, you dont have to go the msutang II route,a nd this way is much easier and less expensive. here are the mods i had to do to the drivers side steering arm, and drag link. i didnt have a set of torches to heat and bend, but i do have a tig welder, so i cut out a section and reinforced it and tig welded it back. http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view¤t=DSC01379.jpgmy original ride was very harsh, but now with the 3 inch front axle with 1 leaf removed,a nd the 4 leafs removed form the back, it rides much smoother. i totally agree with you about waldos truck. that thing is way cool. i too love the stance and his 6 cylinder power with the 3-2's. look through my entire photobucket web album for info and pics of my various conversions, and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask. all in all it was a pretty simple swap, taking me only 1 weekend to R & R the front axle. talk to you later, and good luck. leonard | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,082 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,082 | oh yea, SID is a very cool guy, helping you out with anything and any questions you have, and gives you his cell phone number to get in contact with him. you will be very happy if you go with one of his front axles. http://droppedaxles.com/leonard | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Here's a pic of my longer shackle with the stock shackle propped against it for comparison. The stock one is 3" center to center and the long one is 5". | | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | How Bought lettin the air outta the tires ...that will lower it FAST and not cost ya a $cent ??? LOL
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