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#489717 01/04/2009 4:44 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
What size fuse does the power lead in an Advanced Design radio have.
Thanks Neil

neilroy #489823 01/04/2009 12:27 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
I would use a 14A fuse. This is a little higher than the actual nominal draw when operating but it won't be affected by the spike that occurs when the radio is first turned on.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 9,671
I've been running a 10amp for a couple of weeks on an 6v under dash Coronado aftermarket car radio that I just finished up. It has basically the same tube complement as the AD radio and I'm using the original Mallory vibrator not a Solid-State one. In the original AD radio manuals under the parts listing it shows p.n.147685 - 14amp fuse as Fred has recomended.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Denny,
do you have a collection of photos up with your latest radio? I would like to have a look if you have them posted.

Fred


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
truckernix #490299 01/05/2009 11:08 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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You're gonna be sorry you asked old Gabby Graham Fred.
One of the guys here on the forum asked me last summer if I wanted it he said it was in pretty sad shape. I wasn’t interested in buying it, you know how that goes, unless it’s a factory radio they really aren’t worth much at all. Well he wrote back and said I could have it and he would even ship it over to me, he really didn’t want to see it go in the dumper and that was probably what he would end up doing with it. I figured what could I loose on a deal like that, I maybe could use a tube or transformer out of it, if it wasn’t burned up.
It sat on the bench till the first snow set in, that’s when I migrate from the garage down to the basement and clean up the radio bench for a couple of months radio work. When I picked up the Coronado there was all kinds of what-all rattling around in the case and when I opened it up a bunch of junk fell out glass, one knob and some loose screws, etc. I looked it over and found that only one tube had broken and was scattered all over the insides, the rest were still in place and it was quite dirty insice. The tuner didn’t work it was gummed up pretty bad but no plates were bent, the dial string was messed up, it had the wrong wrap on it and springs were wrong. The tuner shaft bushing had come loose and was jerry rigged to keep it in the chassis and that knob was missing. The foam bumper on one of the cans that spaces out the chassis from the case was dried out and all shrunk up. There were a couple of broken terminal strips, one where the power enters the case. The coils in the power supply were pulled out of their covers and spread apart because of this. There was a shorted wire off the vibrator to the transformer and one of the transformer leads was broken off where they drop through the chassis. The ends were about to pop out of most of the paper caps. The front panel had been dropped and was bent back in and the volume control was pointing off in some odd direction and there were some deep burns where it looks like someone touched it with a soldering iron. The bezel was also pretty badly scratched up and you could just barley make out the station numbers on the dial face. The dial face it self appeared to be Tenite and had shrunk up enough to pull the two rivets out at one end. The mount for the dial face was bent back and the mounting tabs pulled loose, I held the dial up to the light an nothing shone through, it’s supposed to be backlit when the radio is on. There were a few blistered resisters and some crumbling wire insulation. The output transformer was supposed to be mounted on the speaker yoke and the mount was broken off and the speaker basket was warped, must have happened when they broke the mount. The cabinet was badly bent up all around the edges, looked like someone had pried it open with a screwdriver a few times and all the paint was worn off most of the cabinet. The ears on the mounting plate on top of the cabinet were bent and twisted like it had been stepped on while still mounted under the dash. I checked the vibrator and it twern’t vibrating, I checked the power transformer and it wasn’t shorted or open. I hooked up the speaker to test it and it was badly garbled with very low output and full of buzzing bees.
So, all in all it looked like it might be worth saving!!!!! Anyway it was mostly all still there and I just love a challenge so I decided to go ahead and put a few evenings into it. Turned out to be a couple of week’s worth in the end.
I opened and re-tuned the vibrator, straightened the speaker basket, re-shimmed and re-glued the speaker voice coil, repaired the broken output xformer mount, re-caped it, replaced the bad wiring and resistors. Pulled the tuning cap and cleaned and lubed it, re-strung it with the correct springs. Straightened the chassis and made tooling to reset the brass tuner shaft bushing, took an impression of the one knob and cast a new one. Sanded and re-polished the bezel, cleaned the volume control, made new terminal strips (they were special) and re-riveted them to the chassis. Stripped and straightened the cabinet and mounting bracket and fixed the stripped side screws then re-painted it. Replaced a couple of tubes and gave it a little tune up and she was sittin’ here on the bench in the basement pullin’ in Toronto last night. She’s a little tattered after 58 years and has a couple of scars on her face but it’s still quite serviceable and would look pretty good slung under the dash of an early 50’s car or truck as a period correct aftermarket 6v radio. With all of the period correct factory radios going for what they are nowadays, this would be a real nice alternative. I might even use it in that ’52 I’m gonna look for when I finish up the truck.

Well, I’ll just quote my buddy that was over today, when I told him someone had asked about that radio I was working on, he said, “I’ll bet he’s sorry he asked about it now!”

So this is the finished radio, the bezel is one of those that are very special, all molded and impossible to duplicate, it had a couple of burn spots that didn’t clean up completely. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2514539690098611668kjnPqZ

Makin’ up some new knobs.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2567630020098611668pjONTv


Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Denny,
thanks for sharing those photos. You do some truly amaing work!

Could you share with us just what we are looking at "casting the knobs". Are those RTV molds that you made? Do you somehow mount a crew in the new knobs? What are your new knobs made of?

For those of you that have read Denny's description, the radio has a variable capacitor for tuning with string connecting the tuning knob, the capacitor and dial pointer together. This is typical of auto radios around the early forties. After that they switched to ferrite slugs moving in and out of tuning coils. Table radios continued with the old arrangement for the duration of the tube era.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
No, the molds are silicone rubber, and the knob material is epoxy resin. Many hobby shops have these materials. You can reuse the molds 30 or 40 times before they start to go south on ya. Some of the molds pictured are for Sears (Arvin) metal radios, they are always missing.
Ya might start here:
http://www.hobbycast.net/video.htm
or here:
http://www.smooth-on.com/
or here:
http://www.alumilite.com/
or here:
http://www.sfjssantafe.com/
just google silicone rubber and you will be flooded with sources.
Same with the epoxy resin.

I made up some blank shafts coated with a release and plug them into the back of the knob after I pour it.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Thanks Denny, this is great information!

Fred


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!

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