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#48777 08/08/2005 6:16 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 78
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 78
It’s a 1954 3100 with 235 and 3 speed. The trans oil ran low and the rear end was over full but not as much as the trans was low. I am in the process of replacing the torque tube bushing. Since I took that apart I decided to replace the clutch and pressure plate. The bell housing was covered with oil on the inside. The flywheel to clutch plate surface had oil on it, the pressure plate to clutch was fine. I have an oil leak that I figure is from the rear main seal. Can I run the motor without the flywheel to see if the seal is leaking? I am also wondering what keeps the transmission oil from leaking out the front of the transmission along the clutch gear shaft?
Thanks
Steve

#48778 08/08/2005 1:48 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,771
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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How do you plan to get the engine started without the flywheel on it? Check the flywheel attaching bolts to see if one or more of them have gotten loose. They go all the way through the crankshaft hub, and if one gets loose or comes out, oil can bypass the rear main bearing seal and soak the clutch. My 59 model 235 did that, and ruined a brand new clutch in the process. The previous owner lost one flywheel bolt during a rebuild, and didn't replace it!
Jerry


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#48779 08/08/2005 3:49 PM
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Posts: 78
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks, I did not look past my nose on that thought. The flywheel bolts came out without a lot of work I planed to use a tread sealer when when I put them back. The area around the rear seal did not look like it leaked as much as I expected.
Steve

#48780 08/11/2005 1:32 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 226
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Posts: 226
The older transmissions didnt have a front seal either,,,they had a spiral cut in the shaft that as it turned kinda gravity , no wait..LOL..centrifically forced the oil on the shaft back into the transmission.


What it will say on my Tombstone: "Boy, that guy sure owed alotta people Money"
#48781 08/11/2005 3:56 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
6
Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
There are also some pins in the crankshaft flange that are placed in a pattern to cause the flywheel to bolt up in the correct position so the timing mark is set correctly. Those pins are very difficult to remove, but sometimes the machine shops will remove them and forget to replace them. Consequently you can end up with a eek load of oil coming through those holes. Be sure you have them in and that they are tight!

Joe wink


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#48782 08/12/2005 1:42 AM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
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'Bolter
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You need to go ahead and replace the rear main seal, it's not that difficult. Drop the crank pan. Be sure to clean the oil strainer while it's apart.


Fred
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69 C-10
#48783 08/12/2005 5:22 AM
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Posts: 78
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the info Gents. The pins are in place and tight. The tranmission seal got me. I placed the trans nose down and the rest of the oil drained out to my surprise. And yes I am in the process of replacing the rear seal. The torque tube bushing is in place. I can't wait to get back on the road!
Thanks again,
Steve


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