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| | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 | 1. Does it matter if the generator I'll be getting has a 6 inch or 7 inch case? ('41 1/2 ton with '54 235) My nonrunning truck came with a 7 inch case but the Filling Station catalog indicates that a 6 inch generator case would be more appropriate for a '54.
2. Is there a way to "test" the vacuum control on the distributor, or should I just buy a new one?
3. Does it matter if I buy a 12 volt ignition coil with a seperate ballast resistor or just buy an ignition with a built in resistor? Thanks | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | watsjoe,
#2. If you can draw a vacuum on the diaphragm and have it hold, the unit is internally intact. As crude as it sounds, sucking on it with your mouth and holding the vacuum with your tongue will prove it functional. Releasing the vacuum allows the little bracket to spring back, you should be able to see this happen.
A small hand held vacuum pump will get you the same results.
#3. Using a ballast resistor and a bypass circuit, while a tiny bit more complicated wiring wise will supply the ignition with full voltage during START. Some people feel this allows a better start. Using the internally resisted coil is fine too, makes wiring simpler...it's your choice. Your starter switch, if using a foot starter, will need a bypass terminal on it if you choose to use the ballast resistor. Some switches don't have this small connection, but they are available from suppliers.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Either gen. will work but you will need a spacer or washers at the rear mounting bolt if you get one with a different length.
I prefer the coil with an external resister. The internal one is for tractors. Like Stuart says you need the later model switch on top of the starter with a term. on the side for bypass.
Stuart has it right with the vacuum advance. You should see it move when you open the throttle a little. If not disconnect the line & make shure you have vacuum when you open the throttle. If vacuum is there & it doesnt advance then the chamber is bad or something is stuck.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
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