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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,031 Posts1,055,433 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 | Bought a cab mounting kit, Parts are as follows/ 2 large round cup washers,2 bolts, 2 lock washers, 2 nuts, & 8 rubber spacers? No instructions. Its obvious that the 2 bolts attache the front portion of the cab. I also have the 2 shackles that attache to the back of the cab. Are the shakles attached to the side of the frame via a backet or directly to the side of the frame. Are there spacers between the rear of the cab and the top of the frame? Wondering what order the shims/spacers & rubbers are installed. I looked in the factory manual I have, and could not find anything that explained this very well. Also did a search on this site. Was wondering if anyone knows where I coud get a photo or instructions with diagrams? http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/vickraft/002.jpghttp://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/vickraft/003.jpg | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 | Must be someone out there that has mounted a cab and remembers the methods they used? The original cab I had was not usable & no mouting hardware due to floor being completely rotted out. My replacement (cab only) came with shackles in place. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | My best guess is that the 8 "rubber spacers" are for the rear shackles. The rest is for the front and the two square parts you didn't mention are cushions that go between the front cab mount and the frame.
Sorry I can't be more help with the rear shackles, I haven't gotten to that part yet other than a casual assessment of their condition, but I do believe they just bolt directly... I know they do to the floor, I'm just not positive about the frame. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Somebody at one time posted a great step by step story on cab mount refurbishing but now I can’t find it.  As I took them apart it became self explanatory what to do with the rubber bushings and if you have shims with 2 holes in them they go in between the top part of the shackle and the cab floor to achieve the dimension in the shop manual of 49/64” to 53/64” from the top of the frame rail to the bottom of the cab mount bracket. Here’s the best picture I’ve got of the rear mount in place: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1377796784023244788wakCryGood luck.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | I think you would benefit from a factory assembly manual.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 | wait vic,
I never did get my photos on this TIP but... throw away the 2'' round/square rubber cab dot you get from the vendors. take/find 2 long pieces of very dense rubber strip about 1/4''x2''x14'' and place one end where the front cab rubber bolt/rubber dot goes. you'll have to make a 1/2'' hole in the rubber strip, about an inch from the end for that cab front bolt to fit thru. this piece of dense rubber follows along the top of the truck frame-work that corresponds to where the bottom of the cab support structure/frame is. GO look at your truck & cab frame to see what I mean.
By doing this you NOW SUPPORT the ENTIRE BOTTOM of the cab frame work INSTEAD of just a 2'' dot. drill a smaller hole at a place somewhere along that truck frame and place a big pop-rivit to hold the other end of the rubber strip. rivit it before you set the cab in situ.
my film failed to advance thru the camera that day and i placed my cab on my frame this way. the rubber strip cost me about $3.00 at my local rubber supply. conveyor belt or any dense flat stock of rubber will work.
Last edited by carolines truck; 12/25/2008 7:06 AM.
Jim & Caroline The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense." Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 | Just as always, the good advise starts to flow from fellow Bolters. Hey Czechman when you said the 8 rubbers are used as replacement rubbers for the shakles, I thought (DAH!!)how could I have missed that? Curt B the photo of the shackle in place is perfect! Makes it clear, also shows that there is nothing between the back bottom of the cab & the top of the frame. I'm going to also take the good advise that Carolines Truck gave me. I realy like the Idea of covering & supporting the entire front area of the frame contact area instead of using the 2"x2" shims supplied with the kit. You know Czechman the advise on using conveyer belt material is exactly what some of the original bolt owners did back in the day. When I took the truck apart I found shims that were indeed made of conveyer belt materials. A sure sighn that these people had to make due with what they had on hand. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 | Oh yeah, here is my plan. Install front as explained in above thread.(2x14 heavy rubber shims) Take shackles apart, sandblast,prime,paint, replace rubber sleeves, re-assemble shackles & install. Of course as mentioned by Curt B & also in one of the manuals, make sure the space is between 49/64" & 53/64"
Thanks again everyone for all the great advise & Ideas. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 | Where did you buy the kit? I need one. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Good info in this thread, especially since the rear shackles are going to be in my immediate future. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 | i bead blasted all of my brackets then POR-15 them. the cab was painted after blasting and completely primered. when i installed my rear bolt rubbers i applied a coating of thin grease. 1. to help slide it into the hole. 2. protect the zinc bolt w/ a smeer & on any threads inside the rubber washers. (I used a nyloc) 3. protect the rubber a little. TIP #2.when installing the rear bed........ i made the wood blocks from hardwood (NOT a soft wood) and used a second set of 2'' rubber squares so both top and bottom of the wood block had rubber. i drilled the hole clean so the bolt threads would not get hung up when pushing them down. i lightly sanded the wood and put 2 coats of varnish on them. i added a breaded ground wire from the truck frame to any part of the heavy metal bed frame.  then I coated all my TRUCK's GROUND BOLTS w/ ncp-2 battery anti-corrosion paste. remember there is NO KIT for this application. I bought my rubber scrap for about $10. when i buy scrap i buy xtra for?????
Last edited by carolines truck; 12/26/2008 6:24 AM.
Jim & Caroline The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense." Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 Insomniac | | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 | I didn't buy a kit. The front pads were made of industrial rubber material much like what was described above. The bushings for the shackles are off the shelf stuff from the local trailer parts store.
Gord 🇨🇦 ---- 1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 | That was the one I was looking at. The photo doesn't show the cup washers. Did they come separately or were they included. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | I just bought that same kit recently and it did not come with the cup washers. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 | Oh yeah, here is my plan. Install front as explained in above thread.(2x14 heavy rubber shims) Take shackles apart, sandblast,prime,paint, replace rubber sleeves, re-assemble shackles & install. Of course as mentioned by Curt B & also in one of the manuals, make sure the space is between 49/64" & 53/64"
Thanks again everyone for all the great advise & Ideas. I know this is an old thread but can anyone enlighten me on these space measurements? What does the whole 49/64" 53/64" mean? Tks | | |
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