The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

I cut out the driver's side rocker and the rest of the rot. The other rocker came out with a lot less trouble because it was so rusty that it fell apart. I also started cleaning up the bottom of the floor and frame. There is a lot more room to work with the rocker gone.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2745273660103315458gnwZIG

I've been working on the front sheetmetal and it looks like I probably need to check the radiator support for alignment. I'll start over with that today and see how it all fits.

Might as well throw in a little something that ALL stovebolt drivers SHOULD be doing to their trucks if they haven't already done it!

A few weeks back I noticed some fuel fumes from UNDER my totally redone 54 truck and upon inspection, I found a leaking rubber fuel line between the tank pickup and the frame, where the line runs forward. No big deal....a couple twists on the ss clamp and the problem was fixed. However, on squeezing the rubber fuel line I found the "Goodyear fuel rated" line to be spongy. No big deal!!!! That evening, at a car show my buddies 32-5 window coupe needed the same treatment.....a leak....but it wasn't at the clamp! The line had opened up like a clamshell and when he gave it a little tug...it split wide open. Emergency repairs ensued.

So what's with these fuel line issues? E10!!!!!! If you are running a truck on E10 fuel without having changed out the old style "Fuel rated" line to the new blue-lined "Ethanol rated" fuel lines you're sitting on a time bomb!!!!

Modern vehicles, with fuel injection are for the most part, covered by "Ethanol rated" fuel lines. It's our old trucks that are suffering from the woes of E10....they don't get the fuel mileage, have issues with "tank scouring" and need to have their idle mixtures richened in order to run and idle better. Many of our fellow streetrodders have experienced these same performance issues and I think it's worthy to point out the inherent danger of fuel fires before someone looses their truck.

The new blue-lined E10 rated hose is pricey and it's a pain crawling around under your truck....but failure to address this issue WILL result in leaking clamps and split rubber lines. If you are interested in the impact of E10 on older vehicles and some of the nightmare stories resulting from our governments mandates for all stations to pump blended fuel by 2009, Google "E10 Problems" and spend a couple hours reading real-life horror stories.

Might not be a bad idea to upgrade those potentially dangerous rubber fuel lines before your Bolt goes up in flames!!

Dave

worked on the door panel frames, getting ready to paint them and install new panels. waiting on the new arm rest before i install so i can punch the proper holes. ron

Repaired lower front drivers side door post. Removed the old master cylinder and dry fit the new CPP kit. Looks like there will have to be some adjustment made to the rod that pushes the cylinder in. It will have to be cut off some to work.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2136319250103315458hdmhux

Installed the rear door handle on the right side barn door. While trying to install the lock cylinder I dropped the spring clip that holds the cylinder in place down inside the door. Cant get it out. Magnet on a stick, wire made out of welding rod, nothing works. It seems no vendor sells this part. Oh well tomorrow is another day. Might have to make a clip. Weeds

Try Gum on a wire/stick????

...or duct tape a few feet of heater hose to a shop-vac and put a nylon across the end of the hose.

Good Luck

Not much. I played with some 49' Studebaker tail lights. Scribed them and ground them to fit the rear fenders. Just looking at them. They would have to be fitted with LEDs to keep from having to cut up the fenders to much. I would also have to make a rubber gasket. I saw what turned out to be some 49' ford lights mounted on a 50' GMC and that gout me to looking at options. I also worked on trying to figure out my CPP master cylinder bracket. Why didn't I just make one to start with. I will have to do some work on it to get it to work.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2805798000103315458MkPWWG

Drove "down to Georgia" and picked up a set of wheels and tires I plan to use on the panel. WEll, at least I did something

Yesterday I dropped by Fastenal to pick up the three cans of Loctite Rust Converter that I had ordered. I had a small piece of rusted area on my left front fender brace that needed attention before I covered it with my Herculiner bed liner. Last night I took care of that little job and tonight I hope to install a firewall feed through junction block for positive current and one for negative.

I installed the driver's side rocker panel. Next up is the floor.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2506097920103315458eGrWJn

Well, it's 15 degrees here, so at this time of the year all I do is think about what I'm going to do. However, I started it and let it run for about a half hour.

I cut and fit floor. A little more trimming and it will be ready to weld in.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2740198110103315458kurSCj

well the body man came by and gave us a plate of cookies and treats. What a nice guy!!
He informs me the doors are hung back on the body and its taking shape. For me I had to resand the wing vent frame and repaint. I must have been under the influence of diet Pepsi when I sprayed them. Runs everywhere....you can't see them in the door but I know they're there!

Edit: I also got down the inner fenders. I'm going to Por15 the bottom of them and the body man is going to paint the top black.

All I get from my body man is a statement!

How about some pictures on those vents Alvin?

Today I pulled the left front shackle, two u-bolts, and the double acting shock off of the 3/4 ton, Tomorrow I plan to get the rest of the left front leaf off, the replacement on, and the shock filled with fresh fluid and re-installed. Hard to imagine those old bolts being so tight, I mean no one has tightened them in almost 60 years.

Finally pulled my heater box out of the '58, it dumped a major amount off coolant on the floor in a few minutes last summer...
funny though, the ranco valve and hose and htr core seem to pass the mouth blow test... , gonna drop off the core to get pressure tested next week, new hose and valve ordered thru JC's with a bunch of other stuff....Have to install my wiper/washer squirters, and washer bottle, reroute the antenna wire...Shops nice and warm....2 1/2 feet of snow outside....

I walked past mine,and thought"I'd better get started soon"Acually it goes for wheel tubs next month,then I can start on the box floor

Started working on getting the rearend centered today. I decided to drill a centering hole in the main leaf. I took Romero's advice and moved it back 2". While I was at it I went ahead and removed two leafs and added the wheel spacers. Worked into the night (sucks not having a garage) but here are the results:
passenger side
drivers side
I think it turned out pretty good. I'll take some more shots tomorrow.

Looking at those wheels, the only word appropriate would be "perfect." Good Job!

On my '58 Wideside Jimmy I removed all the old bed wood. It was completely rotted out. I took my 4" grinder and ground off all the bolts so I could remove the bed strips. After a little cursing I was able to get the bolts loose to get one of the wheel tubs off. I removed two of the cross sills and got as much of the rust off that I could using a 3M wheel. I washed them and sprayed with a Prep-step solution. Tomorrow they will get a coat of Zero Rust. I'll also try to get that other wheel tub off.

Also tomorrow I need to order up some rust converter. I'll use a garden sprayer and try to get as much as I can up between the panels on the bedsides.

I've had the oak wood and stainless strips for the bed for a couple of years and can't wait to get my bed done and back together.

Did'nt do anything to the ride but did clean up the garage so i will be to work on the toys.

Fixed the durn heater, again. Seems the blower switches don't last too long, so I bypassed it with a universal switch from the flaps.

Nothing today but last night I did get my motor and stand set up so I can try my hand at polishing some stuff.
Well, I did get all new bolts for all the doors on the panel and some washers for the back fender bolts. That does count don't it

Worked on that D#%$@& :mad: radiator support. I had to drill out the two bolts holding it to the crossmember and tap them to 7/16. I hope to be able to bolt it back down tomorrow. I also fabricated a neg. feeder through the firewall to provide ground to assorted instruments etc. in cab.

Started fitting together the 5" exhaust pipe and muffler. Have it pretty much tacked and clamped together, now need to make the hangers and double check the fit and placement before I finish welding.
Then week after this should have the 4" down pipe back with it's new ceramic coating and can then completely finish the exhaust system.

Grigg

I changed oil and filter on the 51. I also greased the chassis and checked the other fluid levels.

Well if any of you want to get DEAF in just a few seconds stop on by...lol
I have been picking up stereo eqpt. over the last few months here an there was lookin for a cd player/radio and a set of speakers I can hear goin down teh road.
Well I let the 19 yr old have at and now there is a cd player wich i did want ...but NOW there are 2 amps and speakers in the kick panels and doors...THEY LIGHT UP BLUE to match the interior and this ungodly box with 12" woofers???.. I think he said...well to say the least it will make ya DEEEEF ...he was proud and said Merry X-Mas ...so I gotta just keep the volume down an live with his efforts...lol
Tim

I bet that's the kind of stereo that you can still hear with the volume down all of the way, we have an old TV like that.

I worked on rusted area of the cross brace just behind the cab. I forgot to take the pictures. Bought a Harbor Freight 21 gal 3 hp compressor and a 40 lb pressurized sand blaster at the local salvage store. I paid $40.00 for the compressor and $15 for the sandblaster. The compressor had a bad head gasket. I made a replacement from some copper flashing. It now works fine. The sandblaster has a bad ball valve which I will replace. I hope that with the new compressor and my old 3.5 hp craftsman in tandem I will have enough air to run the blaster. We will see.

Swapped out the 3/4 ton axle for a 1/2 ton axle, painted my new tilt/telescoping steering column, and started installing my power steering kit I got from Classic Performance Products. I've been very busy these past few days getting stuff done on the truck.

Well, I started on modifying the 47-51 pull down handle to work on my 1952 panel's back door. Spoke to Mike today and he helped me on a couple things. The back handle on panels have shorter stems than the front doors on the earlier models but can be made to work. Thats what I'm going to do......even though I found one that is for the panel...which by the way does NOT have the slanted bezel like the front doors. I'm gonna shorten one of the front handles just to prove I can do it!!!
I also checked out the local glass shops today to get my side windows and wing vent glass cut in the laminated smoke/gray tint glass. $41 each for the roll up window and 27 for the vent window. Beats catalog prices and no shipping. Got one more place to check out and I think they will do a good job maybe 5 or 6 less per glass.
Tomorrow I'm going to visit the body man again and take him some new bolts and washers for the rear fenders and take some pics.

hi im new to your forum and love all the advice and helpful hints. im just putting the finishing touches on my 65 stepside.previous owner painted all the chrome the same as the truck so i am taking apart the front light assembly to add on new chrome bezels just to take away from all the same color. also just waiting for a shipment of christmas gift parts from LMC truck>

Welcome bignblue, glad you are checking us out. Well, I got my engine all bolted in place today. Next step is the big heavy 4 speed.

Well, I did prove I can cut the stem on the handles of the early model door handles, and cut the stems off, redrill a hole, and file flat the ends. Now, add the correct bezel and I've got a rear handle for my panel doors.
I took some notes and hopefully soon I will write a little tech tip on this...since you can't buy a repop short handle for the rear panel doors.

If an effort to mock up my front sheetmetal I discovered my Garage is too short and with the temp at 30+ outside I decided to beg my wife to park her ride outside so I could spin the truck sideways with the shop dollies. That done I began bolting parts together only to discover I was short hardware and would need to visit my local Fastenal store. Problem was it was New years eve and Fastenal was closed and would not be open again till Monday. Oh for just one day when it all goes according to plan.

I got a cut-off wheel for my grinder and cut the welds holding the sheet metal plate that somebody covered up the old wood and strips with. Quite a mess under there, but it will come back to life,eventually,with new wood and strips.

I put my power steering gearbox on the truck Saturday and was able to drive the truck down the road a piece. Still don't have a widshield so I couldn't go too fast. Ended up running out of gas no fuel gauge yet either. Luckily I was able to make it back home after starting it about three or four times and taking it easy. I put 10 gallons in as soon as I got to the garage. It runs great now and I only have to use one finger to turn the steering wheel in both directions. I ruined the previous gearbox by drilling a hole in the input shaft to attach the steering column. With this new gearbox installed I am in good shape now.

Finally got the one thing that was high on the anxiety list for this build - installing and plumbing the evaporator. It's been a comedy of errors and false starts (my fault) since I got the kit from Vintage Air two years ago. First, I didn't know about the difference between the 6 cyl and 8 cyl core support, so I got the wrong plumbing. I didn't much care for the cheesy vent outlets, so I came up with a little more retro feel. Lastly, I wanted to use a bulkhead fitting because I didn't want to cut any more holes in the firewall (I went through a lot of work to smooth the firewall). Long story even longer, I ended up using the new Aeroquip EZ clip system so I could fabricate plumbing to fit. I'm pretty happy with the results:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChrisAurit/DropBox?authkey=A1jnYCDOUjw#5298182924998655298
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChrisAurit/DropBox?authkey=A1jnYCDOUjw#5298182976281136082
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChrisAurit/DropBox?authkey=A1jnYCDOUjw#5298183005371448434
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChrisAurit/DropBox?authkey=A1jnYCDOUjw#5298183040643413666
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChrisAurit/DropBox?authkey=A1jnYCDOUjw#5298185814051035410

Still a few things to do (ducting, fabricate a better heater control cable, o-rings in the engine compartment), but in the grand scheme of things they're pretty minor.

Back to sheet metal. UGH!