The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starter with foot button --- Question

I have a very novice question.... I'm putting a rebuilt 1955 235 6cylinder in my 1951 Chevy 3100 and want to use the foot starter button. I have the working starter that was on the engine but it doesn't have the push button solenoid on the top of the starter. Can I simply purchase the push button solenoid and modify the existing starter or will I need to find and purchase a starter that has the push button on it? I've found someone on this site that has a working starter from a 1954 235 6 cylinder but I'm concerned as to how to ensure that it will match up with the 1955 235 flywheel that is currently in the truck. Any/all guidance would be GREATLY appreciated!

Here's a photo of the working starter that I have ----> Photobucket for ChevyTruckKy

And here's the switch that I will need to use the foot starter assembly -----> Photobucket for ChevyTruckKy

I'm not an expert but the push button on top of the starter isn't a solenoid. It's the starter switch. The starter shaft is mechanically pushed into position (the job the solenoid would do) by the stomp mechanism when you step on it. At the same time the same mechanism pushes against the switch on top of the starter sending current to the starter. If you still have the stomp mechanism in place you should be good to go by putting the switch on top of the starter & making sure everything's wired correctly.

I have modified my original posting on this to include a photo of the starter that I have at this point.

54 and earlier starters were 6 volt and will not work with the 55 fly wheel. You will need to change to a 6 volt fly wheel or use a 55 or later 12 volt foot starter. The difference in the tooth count of the ring gear.

Many people (and vendors) call the button/switch on the top of a mechanical (foot-start) starter a mechanical starter-solenoid.

You obviously (from your photo) have an electrical solenoid that was used on many (if not all) Powerglide-equipped 235 (6v and 12v) car engines, and Hydra-Matic-equipped 235 (6v and 12v) truck engines, and optionally on 12v 55-59 235 and 261 truck engines (it may have been standard on later 261s?).

Tiny's solution for using a mechanical solenoid on your 12v solenoid-equipped starter sounds good, assuming that foot-lever set-up will attach to the lever that actuates the starter-drive (Bendix) mechanism inside the starter "nose". I have never done this, but most likely Tiny has.

If you want a 6v starting system, your could use a 6v flywheel/clutch-assembly and foot-start linkage-mechanism and starter (as ttodd posted).

An aside: I have always wondered if the term "foot- stomp starter" was invented by people who have only used foot-actuated starters that had worn out mechanical solenoids. Stomping on one of these starter buttons that is good condition would seem to be unnecessarily violent and unduly inelegant (even in a truck).

Tim

Tiny, Tim and ttodd... thanks so much for the feedback.

Tim, based on your comments about my starter, is it safe to say that it is a 12v starter that was on my 55 235? I will be going with a 12v system on my truck. As I mentioned in my previous posting, perhaps not clearly, the starter that I have included the photo of is the one that was on the engine... and we even started it briefly prior to breaking down, boring and rebuilding. So.. I know that it mates up to the flywheel. So now I guess it's just a matter of determining whether I can use the mechanical solenoid/mechanical starter switch (as pictured in my original post) and mechanical foot-lever setup on the starter that I have in place of the electrical solenoid. Any other comments would be greatly appreciated. I'm simply trying to determine whether I can use the starter that I have with some adjustments or whether I will need to purchase a new 12v starter to use with my foot starter setup. Thanks again to all!!

I do not think that you have posted enough information to confirm if the truck is a 6v or 12v 1955 truck - the 1st series 1955 were 6v and the 2nd series 1955 were 12v, and anyone since 1955 might have done whatever with the electrical parts.

Does the starter or generator have a tag on it? I think that black tags indicate 6v and red tags indicate 12v. If there are tags but the color is gone, post the codes on the pages.

What are the block and head casting codes? (this will not really tell you what electrical voltage the previous owner had but it is a little more information).

Connect a good 6v battery to the starter with GOOD 6v battery leads (2 gauge cables or thicker) and see if it spins the engine. If it does not, try a 12v battery.

Do you ultimately want a 6v or 12v system?

All 55.2 through 59 six banger trucks used the 12 volt foot starter. Since you state that you have a 55 12 volt just grab the set up off any of these, bolt it to yours, and go truckin. Someone can chime in and say whether engines that came with the push button starters had bell housings that were drilled and tapped for the foot starter bracket. If not, then it's a much bigger job. If you just want unique then get a vacuum switch off an old Buick where you step on the foot feed to activate the starter or the switch off a Studebaker pickup where you push the clutch pedal down to the floor to start, both easier than changing out the bell housing.

ChevytruckKY the bell housing from the 51 will work with a 6 volt or 12 volt foot starter. I would use the 51 bell housing the fly wheel clutch assembly from the 55 and a 55 or later 12 volt foot starter. The bell housing from the 55 will have the wrong kind of mounts for the frame.

I have a 12v foot starter on my 1960 235...stock 235 starter in a 1942 1/2 t PU. No mods...any 12v starter from 57 on will work in your truck.

Sadly no, I was just trying to relay what I'd read here in the past using my aging memory.