The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 170 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,081
Posts1,056,078
Members48,434
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#48531 08/01/2005 8:43 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
K
Member
Member
K Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
I have a new project truck, as some of you already know. I have two questions.

First, the radiator has no cap and the lower hose has a huge gash. I'm assuming I have at least 15 years (last time the truck ran) of spiders and mouse mess in there. Is there any advice you can give me for flushing the radiator? (I only want it to run well enough to go back and forth into the garage until next fall, when I'm planning to have the engine and tranny rebuilt by someone a lot smarter than me.)

At this point, I'm planning to fill it up with the garden hose and drain it a few times, replace the hoses and cap, then use Gunk brand radiator flush – according to their directions. Am I on track? Or is this a bad idea?

Second question involves a tool problem. I couldn't open the Master Cylinder cap with a regular socket, so I went right for the breaker bar. I twisted the hex head that was molded into the cap right off (cap looks like die-cast). Any bright ideas how to get the cap off now that I wrecked it?

Thanks guys,


~ Kimberly
My '54 ... and my '63 and a '59 F100
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,066
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,066
soundslike your idea on the radiator is ok, for me I never belived in putting anything in it,,you might use some type of pressure hose to help blow out the rad. from the outside of the cores and then do the garden hose bit,,, with that twisted off plug, you might do a search here,, some have talked about it but dont recall who,,,maybe just drill it out, put a screw/bid and get it out that way,,,good luck,,Fred


Redryder pix
My Hotrod
A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."
I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 399
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 399
If the hex nut twisted off the cap, I doubt that drilling a hole and backing it out will work..I think I would go right with the steel chisel and hammer and see if you could get it to turn, Maybe squirt a little poopoo on the seam where the cap meets the cylinder..Good Luck, Steve

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Just take off that lower hose & flush it out with the garden hose. When you pull the engine for rebuild you can send the radiator to a radiator shop & have it cleaned & checked, or youmay just wan,t to go ahead & get a new one.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 30
J
Apprentice
Apprentice
J Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 30
You may want to get a radiator cap with a hose fitting on it and tighten up a hose clamp on the bottom hose so that when you turn on the water, the pressure in the radiator will let you know if the core is bad. This might save you a few dollars and let you know right away if the rad needs to be repaired or recored. If you've busted a hole into the top of the master cylinder, there are probably chips in the reservoir and I would be afraid to use it.

Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
Here's what I do for an engine flush. I start with a short piece of 3/4" radiator hose, a female garden hose fitting and an on-off garden hose valve. Unhook the lower radiator hose, remove the drain plug from the engine block. Unhook the upper heater hose and hook the garden hose to the fitting on the engine. Open the garden hose valve slowly, too much pressure and you can kiss the radiator and heater core good-by. Flush until clean water comes out everywhere. If no water comes out the block drain, take a piece of baling wire and start poking it around to the back and top until it starts flowing. This blockage will keep the rear of your engine from being cooled. Then put the hose down the radiator and flush away. I would not use the cleaner unless there is a lot of visible buildup in the radiator, it will probably open up a bunch of pinhole leaks.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
E
Member
Member
E Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
Kimberly, flushing the radiator and engine with a garden hose with a lot of pressure should do the trick. On the master cylinder the new repop covers are die cast and I would use a big center punch and hammer and try to hammers it off that way or else use a big pipe wrench.
Jamo


Growing old is manditory-Growing up is optionial.
Jamo
http://community.webshots.com/user/erics46
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
K
Member
Member
K Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
Terrific. Thanks for helping me out guys! I'm renting a heated pressure washer this weekend to degrease the engine and sanitize the cab interior. I'll be working on the radiator and MC before then. Lots of great ideas - THANK YOU!


~ Kimberly
My '54 ... and my '63 and a '59 F100
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 148
1
Member
Member
1 Offline
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 148
i would use a pipe wrench on the mc cap, if you can get it up there.


2003 ford lightning
1959 chevy 36
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 637
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 637
Kim, flush the radiator with a garden hose but put it in the bottom hose fitting on the radiator. This is called backflushing. Water goes the opposite direction as the water pump flows and tends to lift out the rust and junk better. Let it go for a while until there is clean water coming out. This is an old trick from radiator shops back when there were no pressure caps and keeping cool was really needed to keep it below 212.

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
K
Member
Member
K Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
More good stuff! Thank you!


~ Kimberly
My '54 ... and my '63 and a '59 F100
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
If its really full of crud/bugs/mouse poop you may want to remove it & flush it upside down so the crud exits the cap hole. Also you can shake it around to help loosen stuff. Brian


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0