The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Intake Gasket question

Getting ready to install the intake on the 283. Felpro gasket kit came with rubber gaskets for the lifter valley for the front and back of the block. I have never used these before and always ran a 1/4" bead if hi-temp RTV on the block.

Should I use these or not?

Never mind went to Edlbrock website and got the info I needed.

I have used both, I really like the rubber gaskets with a simple dab of silicone in the corners.

Edlebrock states, "do not use gaskets, but a 1/4" bead of HI-Temp RTV".. I am installing an Edlebrock, have had goodluck with the RTV in serious hot rods so will go with that.

I agree. Throw those rubber gaskets as far as you can...

Just don't overdo it on the RTV. I've seen several trashed engines caused by bits of RTV that found their way into the oil pump relief valve because some wrench jockey got ham-handed with the squeeze tube. If a little is good, a lot is definitely NOT better!
Jerry

I look at it this way, thousands of dollars were spent on developing the silicone gaskets, while no thought was put into a bead of silicone.

I guarantee you that if they didnt work, that the accountants at FelPro, Reinz, ROL and Federal Mogul would not include them.

I've used the gasket's,had em come out.If the head's were squared up or the intake,it sit's lower and the gasket's split or come out.Now all i use is black rtv and let it sit till it's dry. my 2 cents Tom

never use the gasket's unless you like the leaky look .black rtv al the way .just like brill cream a little dab will do ya .

I use the end gaskets on stock engine buildup jobs, glued into place with the yellow "gorilla snot" weatherstrip adhesive. Just a dab of RTV where the side gaskets meet the ends will prevent seeps at the corners. When I'm custom-fitting a manifold to a set of milled heads, I usually mill the ends close enough to get by with a paper-thin layer of RTV. Once that's done, the heads and the manifold have to remain matched up if they're ever used on another block. That's particularly true if I've changed the angle where the heads meet the block, a really sneaky compression-changing method that most tech inspectors don't know how to find. It makes a set of 76CC heads have an actual combustion chamber volume of 60CC's, higher compression than a set of camel hump heads, with low-compression casting numbers. That makes a "claimer" engine outrun all the competition.
Jerry

Ive had the rubber things ooze out. I always use a big bead of silicone. If it forms a bead on the outside it keeps it from comeing out.

Per Edlebrocks installation instructions, I laid a 1/4" bead of Peramatex Hi Temp RTV. Have done this in the past on numerous hot rods with Hi-Perf engines with no problems.

Manifold end gaskets for the later-model engines with the rubber nibs that fit into holes drilled into the block are a lot less likely to slip out of position, particularly if a little gasket glue is used to hold them into place during assembly. I have been known to drill those holes into earlier engines, using the gaskets as a template. A little care and caution when fitting the manifold prevents most of the gasket-slippage problems.
Jerry