The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop powder coat or not

I am thinking of powder coating my frame, bumper brakets, spare tire holder on my 46 chev pu is this a good idea or not

Go for it. The electric charge will get the powder in every little nook and cranny, and put it there evenly. If there are any draw-backs, someone will post them.

Supposed the be the best way to do it, if you can afford it.

My local powder coater told me you need to break sharp edges or you can get gaps. I'm not sure how significant a problem it is though, maybe an expert can speak up?

I had my frame and a bunch of brackets powder coated.
First they were sandblasted: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2858777480080251109QvHMaJ

Then coated: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2606792970080251109wxkOTl

I would advise you to clean every speck of grease off the frame before sending it to the blaster (or blasting it yourself)
Also look the entire frame over many times, on different days, looking for any imperfections. You have to fix everything before it's coated, or live with it once it's done. Don't get in a rush, take the time to replace the broken rivets, weld the cracks and gouges, and knock out the dents all before you get it coated.

I was not told to break sharp edges. But the nature of the powdercoat is it does not want to cover outside corners or inside cracks/corners. Even so my frame was very nicely coated, could be some folks do a better job than others.

Grigg

Sandblasting is sufficient to remove the burs on the edges of the frame. Powder is a great way to finish a frame.

I've never looked into it before, but what's the average cost of having a frame powder coated?

I paid 650 for powdercoating my approx 18' long 2 ton frame, as well as a bunch of other parts, all as seen here: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2858777480080251109QvHMaJ

I also paid 350 for sandblasting the same, probably could have found a better deal on that part..

Sandblasting is the same expense for either painting or powdercoating.

The part to consider is the cost of good primer, paint and labor as compared to the powdercoating cost. When I did my frame I decided powdercoating was cheaper, and a better final product, also easier for me to do/have done for me.

Grigg

Thx everyone for your thoughts forgot to mention l was also thinking of doing the wheel rims also anyone every done that

Yes, I think powdercoating rims is an even greater value, they benefit from the tougher coating, and were really cheap, 40 per wheel for combined shot peening and powdercoating, and they did an excellent job.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2816154120080251109wWWrOK
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2817686820080251109pQiKpl

Grigg

YOU CANT TOUCH UP CHIPS.WILL CRACK AROUND BOLT HOLES IF NOT TIGHTEND CAREFULLY.

Hold on now-- no need to yell,

I haven't had any problems with my powdercoat chipping, but true you can't touch up with powdercoat, but you can with paint if needed. I think for a frame and wheels powdercoat is still a good idea.
My wheels use clamp plates to distribute the clamping pressure from the lug nuts, so no need to worry about the wheels chipping. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2317319550080251109EeoORc
I did have the plates powder coated too, and so I wouldn't have any problems I used a countersink of the proper angle to cut the powdercoat out of the clamp plates so the lug nuts would have good contact. The clamp plates are quite hard and the countersink did not cut the steel at all, just cleanly removed the powdercoat and stopped.

This same method could be used or ordinary wheels to clean the powdercoat out of the lug holes if you thought this was a problem or thought they would chip.

Grigg

if you can afford it.

but that may not be a bad idea in BC

i did my rims in black @ $50.ea. blasted & powdered.. wish i had done them in another color so the pin-strip would show better. ALL the above answers are very good. it's your truck.
me, i finally said because I have soooo much to do and these bolts are not my prized projects, sorry guyz .... if i could cover them w/ a good clean product (i used por-15 on my frame and many other parts ) to protect them until i can't ( afford to ) drive anymore that's where i stopped the buck. It's just a daily driver for fun, not a prized show rig. it should last me until age 75-80. hell w/ the factory paint lasting this long, We're good.

my .01

WHAT EVER you do... grind every spot where your ground wires go and coat that spot w/ a battery (like NO-OX) coating or vasoline for protection. bad ground will accelerate any corrosion, even at the positive connections.

I had done a Frame off on our 60 Corvette, and I was up in the air as to paint or powder coat the frame. Here in southern California where nothing related to cars is cheap, it was less expensive to get the job blasted and powder coated than to paint it myself ( the same company did the blasting and powder coating). On a down side, the powder coat is thick, so you will need to clean out all of your threaded holes, close fit areas, etc. afterwards. This mostly seems to apply in the front suspension area. Upside, when it gets dirty, a rag with a little simple green and water on it, and it just wipes off. A word of caution ( from experience ), if you get your wheels done, be sure to clean ALL of the paint, powder coat etc. from the lug nut holes down to the bare metal, or they will continue to come loose on you. I'm not 100% sold on powder coat, but if I was to do another frame off, I think I would still go that direction.

Guys, it IS possible to touch up powdercoating- my friend that is a PROFESSIONAL at it says so... He mixes up the powder with some sort of chemical... goes on with a paintbrush. I'll have to give him a call later to find out what he mixes the powder with. It works well for chips, probably not for a large area.