The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop valve seals???

Just got my engine (it's from a 47) together and it smokes worse now than before. Did the rings and the head. Here's my question. When picking up the head, I asked the guy that worked on it if it was all done, if the valve seals werein it and everything and he said these valves didn't need seals. Now I was holding exhaust valves in my hand at the time and maybe he thought I was talking about them. Valve seals ARE needed for the intakes aren't they???? I think this is a stupid question but sometimes you just start second guessing yourself! Gonna call them in the am but thought I'd bounce it off you guys.
Thanks
Jim

Jim,

It has been a long while since I had a 216 apart but I recall the folllowing two things about valve seals:

1. Both intake and exhaust valves have a ring near the top of the stem for a rubber o-ring-like valve seal (although, I never understood how/when it provides a seal).

2. A different style of valve seal shaped like an umbrella, is (was) available that fits in the same groove at the top of the stem.

If you have a shop manual for the year of your engine, the seal should be dicussed/described in the engine section.

There might be another explanation of the smoking: did you have the valve guides replaced, knurled, or sleeved?

Most likely, someone with more knowledge and experience will either correct me or add information.

Tim

Like TC, it has been awhile since I had one of these apart. As I recall there is a small oring at the top of the valve stem that makes a seal between the retainer and keepers. It prevents the retainer from acting like a funnel for directing oil down the valve stem.

The umbrella seals were never factory but some people used them when the guides were worn badly. Other aftermarket seals were (are?) available that require machining of the guide for installation.

All that aside, I have never seen a 235 or 216 that smoked solely because of valve seals or lack of them, except for a puff on startup. If too much oil is getting to the head top side because of an overoiling condition,maybe.

There are afew things to consider here:
1) Looking at the plugs, are all the cylinders involved or just one?
2) When does the smoke appear? Usually with valve seals, the smoke appears after a period of idling, when the revs are increased. If it smokes worse as the throttle is increased but not after idling, then I would think that it is not seals.

the valves have small O ring seals on the exhst an intake.there a pain in the [censored] and usually cut them when putting the valves back together.Now this is what I do.I use Ford valve guide seals.There the umbrella type.They work perfect.There goes that bad word FORD.

Dont mess with the stock type seals(junk) get some good umbrella type seals if it smokes after idling for a while or on start up after sittting for a few minutes when warm it is probably the seals.if it smokes on acceleration or decelleration could be rings.

Thanks guys,
Got a few things to check today
Will keep you posted
Jim

Ok so I guess when you only do a couple of engines in 20 years you are entitled to 1 MAJOR boo-boo.
I never checked the bore and I got standard rings for an oversized hole.
Figured it was that when I put the "umbrella" valve seals in and it made no difference. I just hated to take the bottom apart again.
Well I know what the problem was and can get things right now.
Thanks for all the imput.
Jim

Well have to get it bored an the whole lot. Got some stuff from Patricks and the guy there said there were some 235 low oil pressure babbit motors in the early years, pre 1950. Seems that's what I have. Can anyone confirm that or do I have a 216 that has been already been bored once?
Jim

The 235 was first available in 1941 (low pressure engine).

http://www.antiquechevytrucks.com/Content/Engine%20Information/engine_235_body.htm

Got the d**m thing done. Happy with the results. Taking it apart a few times gave me the chance to experiment with the engine color!!
Just have to fix a oil pan leak and can put the front end on. Then more picts!!
Had to bore .030 over. That did the trick.
Jim