Hi. Here are a few pictures of my latest stovebolt project. Last summer I bought a parts truck for my '48, mostly to have an extra two speed rear end on hand just in case. Well one thing lead to another and I decided to build a matching trailer for the '48. At first I felt kinda bad for junking the old parts truck, but the more I got into it the more I realized the cab and other essentials were beyond repair. I also felt better by putting the some of the major parts of the the truck back to use.
One thing kind of different about this trailer is that I used the front axle for a hydraulically liftable tag axle. It's also a dump bed (to match the truck) and sometime later this summer when I have time, I'll install the cylinder and lift assembly.
I'd like to thank Matt for the tires and rims (they're on the tag axle), Bruce for the hoist cylinder and lift assembly, and my Dad for the inspiration from the one he built for his for '64 GMC over 35 years ago (both of which are still going strong).
I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
PaulyBuilt,Inc: Man you have got to get out of my head I have been wonting to do the same but make it a dump truck pup trailer for the Bull Dog with a long enough reach so that the truck can be dumped with the trailer jackknifed and still attached just like the big boys. Outstanding craftsmanship I would sure like more info on how you did it like the braking system and your drop axle. I have the perfect donor truck with dump bed for the build.
The idea of building a trailer out of a banjo housing is nothing new. 40 years ago any axle with good wheel ends was used for something. However, the hydraulic lift is something new to me. All of my bulk trailers and my flatbeds have air lift axles because they run empty a lot. I had never thought of using hydraulics. Empty trailers pull so much easier with one axle up. You never get too old to see new ideas.
VERY COOL!!! That's a great set up,and the workmanship looks top notch to me! How does it pull woth the tag axle down? Does it steer or is it fixed? Speed
Grant a pup would be a cool addition to your truck and you'll have the power to pull it too. Does your donor truck have a gravel box? If it has the hoist and box already set up, that will be a huge head start. My trailer is set up as a dump as well, but I made it a flat bed because it's a little more handy for the type of business that I'm in. The brakes are vacuum over hydraulic. In one of the pictures you can see I used a vacuum can and master cylinder out of an early 70's chevy. You have to modify the insides of the can a little in order for it to work. Inside the cab I'll have a hand operated brake valve to apply the trailer brakes.
Grant/Speed, the drop axle is steerable, I just used the front axle and springs from the truck the way it was. I haven't tried it yet with it down as I still need to plumb the hydraulics to the back of the truck. There are lots of different ways to make it lift, (air, hyd., manual, etc). But I figured that since I had hydraulics to the trailer for the dump I'd use hydraulics to drop and lift the front axle. One thing that makes it a little more complicated is that the hydraulic systems typically set up for the hoists are single acting, meaning the pressure line also acts as the return line.
I seen that the drop was steerable I have thought about building one like it for the truck. You may consider replacing the hyd cylinder on the axle and replacing it with air bags then you don't have to add a hyd return line. All would need is a small compressor on the truck like one for the 4X4 guys and their ARB air lockers.
I used to build a lot of grain trucks in the 70's with air ride/spring lift pushers and tag suspensions on hydravac equipped chassis using an electric compressor. These had 1/2 HP 12VDC motors that ran units much like a small gagrage compressor. I used standard 1750 CID trailer brake reservoirs and leaf spring lifts. They worked perfectly and I never had to service them. A typical 7-9K front steering axle was used but the tie rods were welded so they couldn't steer. Some modern setups now use a spring loaded self centering device on long-arm tags like concrete mixers, etc. where severe tire scuffing is a big problem. We built pup trailers too but with all new chassis and suspension parts.
There are commercially available vacuum hydraulic brake complete setups for those wanting to build larger trailers. Also I would mention that 12VDC hydraulic pump/valve/reservoir units are available in nearly any combination of valve configurations so having one 3 way and one 4 way valve is no problem at all. This is often easier for home built applications than having a true wet kit and jumping from the truck.
Dave most of the drop axles here in Washington State steer and use two shocks to dampen any wobble they may get while down and running and centering springs mainly to keep the wheels from flopping one way or the other while lifted. While down they run centered by excessive caster the draw back is you must lift the axle before backing. Some new drop axles will change the caster setting via an air valve controlled by the back up light circuit so you can back up without lifting the axle and others will automatically lift the axle when the truck is put in reverse. I once got an overweight ticket for lifting the 2 drop axles on the truck and 1 on the trailer of the loaded truck and trailer I was driving to back in the job off the State highway, totally unreasonable State trooper the sh!t head knew that I had to lift the axles to back in and as soon as they came up he was there with his scales the ticket got thrown out but it still wasted my time having to go to court
I recently had an unfortunate experience($206) with a WA State Trooper too near Vancouver but that is another story. Those weighmasters with the portables can ruin your day for sure. Point is I travel all over the mountain states and am familiar with what is used in WA, OR, MT, ID, UT etc. and was only pointing out some things a home builder could do or want to consider based on my personal experience of building them from scratch.
Hey Paul I have found a better easier way to actuate the brakes on your Big Bolt Trailer check this out easy bolt in and will work with most all electric bake controllers. http://www.towbrake.com/faqs.htm#size
BTW any Bolters who have not seen this tread and are wanting a trailer to go with their truck this is some good reading Paul built one heck of a trailer here.
Man you have the tools and know how to use them. Very nice work.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Grant, that's a cool set up. I'm thinking it has something like a powered screw jack inside the box that pushes against the master cylinder to apply pressure. It'd be pretty easy to install that type of system too, just a single wire from the brake controller.
I decided to stay old school and plumbed mine vacuum over hydraulic. My Dad gave me a really cool brake valve that mounts to the steering column. It's from the era of our trucks so looks wise it fits right in. However I do need to add a hydrovac to the trailer. Right now I've just got the vacuum boosted master cylinder and it doesn't give quite enough pressure to the brakes.
I'll try and post a few pictures of some recent loads I've hauled with it and one of the brake valve next time I get a chance.
Thanks for all the compliments guys... I really appreciate the feed back.
Paul the best thing about that electric over hydraulic unit is it gives you 100% legal and safe system brakes that work with the peddle in the truck and an emergency brake-a-way incase you lose the trailer. SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY
