The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Bent push rod

I have been having some problems with my 216 in my '46 3/4 ton pickup.

First, after putting the rebuilt engine and head all back together, I was off to register the truck for the first time. What joy! Then, BAM, a horrible rattling noise from the engine. I discovered that the guys who rebuilt the head installed the valve keepers incorrectly and it caused #1's intake valve to get sucked into the cylinder and break the guide. I took the head off and had them redo it. The piston was O.K., thank goodness.

O.K., I put it back together for the second time and after running rough for about an hour, I discovered that I had no compression in #2. I did a leak down test and discovered that #2's intake valve was not sealing. So I took the head off again, the shop redid the head and replaced the bent intake valve in #2.

I put him back together for the third time, replacing all of the gaskets as usual and started him up. All was well until, after about an hour in total driving this past Saturday, BAM, another horrible sound (deja vu) at a stoplight while we were enjoying a short trip to the hardware store. I took the valve cover off and discovered a bent push rod in #1's intake. (This is the same valve assembly that had the brand new valve guide put in the first time I had the head off.)

So far I have been too brokenhearted to do too much. This morning I did a leak-down test and I discovered that #1 intake is holding no compression and air passes right through the carb. Worse, this valve is really stuck in the guide. No wonder it can't hold compression because it can't even move. I guess that is how the push rod got bent - it tried to move a frozen valve.

With a broken heart and in all innocence, I ask you guys: What could have caused this? What do I do now? How do I prevent further mishaps?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Michael

My first impression is to suggest that you find another machine shop. It's obvious there's something wrong with their procedures, or the clearances they're using on the valve guides. If a valve is fitted too close when the head is off the engine and cold, it will sieze up when it reaches running temperature. 3 tries is more than enough to establish that the shop either doesn't know, or doesn't care about doing the work right. If mecessary, box up that head and send it to me!
Jerry

Michael, did you have the same rattling noise during each of these events...

Similar, but not the same. The first was a valve slapping up and down against the piston. The second time I did't really have any unusual noise, it was just that the engine ran rough. And the last time the noise was a more tinny as the push rod was banging against the side cover.

Each of the noisy events was precipitaed by a moment of bit unusually loud valve pounding noise though.

Similar, but not the same. The first was a valve slapping up and down against the piston. The second time I did't really have any unusual noise, it was just that the engine ran rough. And the last time the noise was a more tinny as the push rod was banging against the side cover.

Each of the noisy events was precipitaed by a moment of bit unusually loud valve pounding noise though.

Michael, you've got mail!

BTW, for all of you who are having sticky-valve problems on 216 engines, the factory specification for valve-to-guide clearance, according to my Chilton manual, is .004"! I'd consider that to be worn out on any modern engine, including some from the 1950's!
Jerry

Michaellubitz,

Howdy! I live just south of Austin and will be lookin for a machine shop in the (hopefully) near future. Who did you use? I think I would like to avoid them.
Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff,

I used South Austin Machine. They have a real good attitude and have fixed all all of the problems so far. I have had to take off the head each time though. We'll see what they say this time about not having made the correct clearance between valve stem and guide.

Hey, maybe by the time that I am done with my 216, they will have learned by our mistakes and be able to do a rebuild without problems.

I heard (and he seems knowledgeable) good things about Travis Engine Center but I have not had any work done by them.

What kind of truck do you have?

Michael
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make sure your getting oil up there tp lube the valves after 3 times i take it to a pro.

If you are getting oil up there, then the head was done incorrectly. You need to switch shops before you break a piston and have a ruined cylinder. It is not the fault of the engine being a 216. There were many 216s serving for many years and they weren't scrapped because of this.

Are you running fresh gas in the truck? Old gas will stick valves in guides.

That's all I run in my truck is old gas, lol... and I've had it for about 23 years.