The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop S10 front suspension

Hello all,I am new here. i have been on your site every day for about a month now. I have purchased a 52 pickup to build a rod out of with my 14 year old boy.i have been checking what every one is doing with the suspension on there trucks . We want to lower it all the way around.I like the M2 suspension but is more pricey than i would like to spend. My question here is has any one tried the s10 front end with out using the whole frame. I was thinking about cutting at the fire wall and grafting the s10 to it. I can get one of those for $200.00 complete. we plan on a small or big block chevy and 9" ford narrowed rear that i already have.let me know the pros and cons.
Thanks Chuck

You could use this https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=46889&Number=476066#Post476066

The stock S-10 is too narrow. Grafting the G-body front end is a lot of work. My cross member can be installed in 3 hours (after you have the original front axle removed).

Scott

Thanks for the info. Scott looks like your cross member may be the ticket.I plan on lowering the front around 6" Will there be enough tire clearance between fender and tire. I do not want any tire rubbing issues with lowering the truck as much as i want. this why i figured a s10 would be good because it is really close to the mustang 2. What track width are you ending up with on your cross member?

The track width is near stock for an AD. The rest is tire and offset dependent. It is 1/8" wider than the hub-hub dimension of the G-body at 58.1" (in order to fit the truck chassis). and a whole 3.8" wider than the stock S-10.

This cross member will lower the truck only 1" from stock, however that is the beauty of the GM-Metric / S-10 components. There are 3" drop spindles available, and there is a simple mod that can be done with my cross member to get you another 2" (although it adds a bit of cut and weld time). That is 6" total from stock prior to playing with springs. I myself am only doing the 3" drop spindles as I still have to drive the thing on the crappy roads with pot-holes the size of buicks.

PM or email me for more details

Scott

you could try an amc pacer. i have had one in my 54 for 20 years. stay away from the 1979 model parts hard to get. go the www.oldchevytrucks.com for a kit to mount it, (jim carter).

Yes i have found 1 pacer in a junkyard here.It is kinda buried in the dirt. I am not sure of the year or the condition of the parts.
Is this suspension going to lower the truck the way i want it? i like what Scott has going on with his cross member but this also adds cost to every thing and i still do not know if the tires will rub the fenders on a 6" drop. I wold like to know what the best steering would be with Scotts cross member , R&P or conventional box.
Thanks for the input all you guys are giving me.
Chuck

Chuck, Rack & Pinion is the way I am going because it was cleaner, easier, and allowed anyone to use any engine. A box could be made to fit, however would involve much more work. As far as cost, I bought a complete donor truck for $200, sold the engine, and rear end for $100, and I have the wiring harness, 4 good tires, T-5 trans, tilt column, swing pedals, drive shaft and box. So if you add up the costs of parts, it was fairly cheep. The rack was got from a local salvage yard for $35. It will need a new boot as I damaged one, however that is only $12

I do not see where the fenders would rub, however I have 26" diameter tires on the truck right now. Unlike a conventional S-10 where the tires hit the inner fenders, these are pretty cavernous. You could always change the offset of the wheels and move the track in or out as needed. I am running a big-bolt cab and front clip on Frankentruck however I will be running 10" wide wheels with the truck lowered, chopped, and sectioned.

Scott , The rack sounds like the way i would want to go also. Any particular rack that I should use? Also what year s10 should i look for? You going to chop your own top? I want to do the same. I have always wanted to do it to something and i think when i am lowering the truck it would look cool with a chopped top.Thanks for the advice. Chuck

Chuck, prior to chopping the top I will be sectioning 2.5" from the cab. I had been emailing Martinsr on here a few times regarding his sectioned truck. If I chop, I will also rake the windshields so as not to have to cut the cab roof too much.

I know with a 6" drop you will need to trim the fenders about 2" to keep them from kissing pavement. Also, watch the scrub line.

I am using the Camaro Rack because I am going with an all GM theme (and I have brackets for these). However the rack from a Dodge Durango or Dakota will also work as well as a Mustang 2 rack from Flaming River. I also heard that the Explorer rack may fit. The Camaro rack needs the inner tie rods shortened about 1.5" per side

For Frankentruck I need to put a rack on the narrow S-10 chassis. I am looking at a Chevette rack for that project.

Scott, What year S10 do i need to look for?

Thanks Chuck

Any they were made from 1982 - 2004, however a 2WD with dual piston brakes would be the best score, these are the 1998 - 2004. You can also look for the 1978 - 1987 G-body cars (regal, monte carlo, malibu, cutlas, gran national, grand prix, el camino, etc.)

If you want aftermarket, you can get A-arms from Global West, UB Machine and a few others that make road racing parts for the G-bodys. (although insist on the correct units from Global West as they did have a jig problem a while back). I recommend tubular uppers with your plan to lower it, especially if you are using air bags as well. Summit offers the lowest price on drop spindles at $105. S-10 warehouse on Ebay has dual piston brakes and spindles for $300

Scott