The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Chevy 350 w/o the electonics

I am taking a 88 Chevy 350 and rebuilding it using no emmissions parts, basically stripping it down. Got a Edelbrock Manual Choke Carb and have removed a lot of the vacuum parts that are not needed. What I am looking for is an easy wiring diagram so that I can at least crank it over and make sure it fires. I plan on using the coil that is there which should be fine, but if people think I should swap it out I can do that. Just looking for some direction. Right now I just need it to fire before I pull it and swap the body onto the frame I am using. Any thoughts. Thanks.

Jackyl,

If you don't want to include the charging system in your trial run it's really pretty simple.

Attach the battery positive to the stater and connect the negative to the engine somewhere.

Run a wire from either the battery connection on the starter or the battery post itself through a simple ON/OFF switch of any kind to the coil +.

Use another simple MOMENTARY ON/OFF switch in a wire from battery post or starter battery connection to the small terminal on the starter solenoid marked "S". When this terminal is powered, the starter engages and spins. A remote starter switch with alligator clips can be substituted for the above mentioned wiring for this purpose.

When you click your coil ON/OFF switch to ON and push the little button to power the solenoid "S" terminal, the engine will start.

Stuart

Ok need some fast help here. I got the engine cranking but no spark. So I connected the Remote Starter Switch and the engine was cranking then I took and ran a cable from the + to the coil in, I had to splice into the wire which I was assuming was the hot wire. Hit the switch heard a start of the crank and now nothing works.

This is a 1988 engine, so it has what I believe is the coil that looks more like a guitar resistor than a coil then hooks into the distributor. I guess I am more concerned that it is no longer even cranking. Did I blow the starter?

Thoughts.

tap the starter with a small rubber hammer. It sounds like your bendix and/or solenoid is hung and not returning home.

I guess I would be concerned since it just died when I hooked the wire up to what looked to be the coil. Coincidence maybe, I will hit it tomorrow when I get home from work. Just surprised since it was cranking like crazy up until I realized that I did not hook that other wire up and tried that.

Thanks

Short of beating the starter up, nothing. The engine is no longer cranking. It seems odd that hooking up the wire directly from the + over to the coil would cause the entire engine to die.
I am open to thoughts and direction as to where to go next. I am completely confused on this one.

'88 would have been TBI so it needs a computer to run the ignition.
or did it have a carb before?

This one had a carb.

Still no luck, this engine appears to be dead. Not sure how it can go from running fine to dead doing what I did.

Ignition Module would keep it from firing, starter or solenoid would keep it from cranking.

Ended up replacing the entire starter and now it cranks. I pulled the coil and distributor off my 72 350 and put that into the 88 block and will try starting it up without the electronics and points only. I am at my wits end, I am ready to push this thing down into the swamp behind my house.

Is the distributor in correctly? If you have it 180 out, no amount of cranking will start it. The only thing electronic in the distributor is the HEI module. About $12 at the local auto parts store.

Scott

Put the distributor on the engine from my 72 and went back to points, still nothing happening. I am ready to push this and the truck down the hill behind my house into the swamp. Completely frustrated and ready to give up.

Are you getting any indication of a spark, and is it cranking at normal speed now? If you've got fuel, spark and compression, the problem must be timing. Here's a quick check- - - - -take the passenger's side valve cover off, and turn the engine over by hand, or just tap the starter a little at a time until the #6 cylinder's valves are "rocking". The exhaust valve will be closing, and the intake will be starting to open. #6 is the third pair of valves from the front.

Once #6 is in the rocking position, be sure the distributor rotor is pointed toward the #1 plug wire (driver's side front). If not, re-time the distributor until it does, either by swapping wires, or repositioning the gear as you drop the dizzy in.
Jerry

HRL,

I have never seen the procedure you recommend..is it special? Why not do the same thing on #1 which is more handy to reach and has the added benefit (maybe) of eyeballing the timing marks on the crank pulley. I'm sure there is something here I don't understand.

Stuart

The timing mark comes up twice- - - - -once when the cylinder is on compression, ready to fire the gas, and again when it's between exhaust and intake. That's how people get the dizzy in 180 degrees out of time. #6 is the companion cylinder to #1, so when the #6 valves are on the overlap position, intake opening/exhaust closing, #1 is definitely on compression, ready to fire the plug. It also works on a stovebolt, with #1 and #6 as companion cylinders.
Jerry

Edit: To find the companion cylinders on any engine with an even number of cylinders, cut the firing order in half.

Any I-6:
1-5-3-6-2-4- - - -becomes
1-5-3
6-2-4

1 & 6 pistons come to the top at the same time, one on compression, one on overlap. Ditto for 2 & 5 and 3 & 4. This also works for doing an accurate engine-stopped valve adjustment.

V-8: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

1-8-4-3
6-5-7-2

Simple and easy to remember.
Jerry

HRL,

Thanks, I have a pretty fair grasp on the timing thing. My question was why did you recommend #6, the companion cylinder, why not #1?

In my mind, #1 is in a more convenient location, closer for the mechanic, and you have the added benefit of leaning right smack dab over the crank pulley and timing marks. If you are pulling it over by hand, you could stop right on the marks...you wouldn't even have to pull the valve cover. Plus, if you pulled #1 plug, you wouldn't have to guess on being 180&deg out.

I know where #1 is on a GM product, I would have to scratch for a second to find #6. I guess everyone has there own way to do things, huh.

Stuart

If #1 is rocking, and you time the spark plug to fire that cylinder, it will never run! The whole idea behind finding which cylinder is on overlap is so you can fire the OTHER cylinder. If you insist on using #1 to find when the valves overlap, you need to time the distributor to fire #6. Got the idea now?
Jerry

Edit: The timing marks will align when either #1 or #6 is on conpression, since both pistons are at the top at the same time. Companion cylinder timing eliminates the need to turn the engine fast enough to feel for compression, and possibly going so far past TDC that you have to guess at the timing. It's worked for me for over 40 years, and I can't remember the last time I got confused and timed one wrong.
Jerry

HRL,

Thanks for the lesson...I'll stick with my way, using #1 on TDC. I'm too old and dumb to learn new tricks, besides, I'm just a Millwright not a shop teacher.

Stuart

I've been learning new things for over 50 years in the automotive business, so far. I guess that will stop eventually, but not before they shovel the dirt over me. Check out my sig line!
Jerry

HRL,

After reading a different post in another forum, I think I now understand your 'lesson'! If I pulled #1 to the BB or timing mark and was able to get #6 intake and exhaust to alternately move as I rocked the crank slightly back and slightly forward, this would be proof of TDC on #1, no need to check any further...right!

I think I missed this concept in your previous post, if this is indeed the right concept!

If this correct or do I need to call in the grave diggers & shovels?

Stuart

"DING-DING-DING!" Give the man a seegar! That's a totally foolproof way of being sure you've got the distributor aligned with the right cylinder. I've seen a lot of my students, and more than a few professionals get fooled by the idea that if the timing marks align, the dizzy must be timed right.

Good on ya!

Jerry

neat trick...by the way,did ya get it started?...............dave

I have spark, but it just isn't turning over. I think I am going to list the entire thing on craigslist this week, just don't have the time or the patients to mess with it any more and to tell you the truth. I have been getting more and more frustrated and honestly the 1 Ton frame is starting to get on my nerves.

Plus before I start pulling the straight 6 that runs out of the one and swapping the frame with another frame this is probably the best.

I'm now confused. either you have the engine turning or you do not? I thought you replaced the starter.

If you have spark and now the engine is turning over hard you have the timing too far advanced, it is trying to run backwards on itself. Simple fix, while cranking, turn the distributor a little one way or the other.

Sorry when I say turning I meant running. I already tried to move the distributor and nothing was helping while it was cranking.

Find someone who understands ignition timing to help you out, and I'll bet he has it running in under 15 minutes.
Jerry