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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,407 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 | Getting ready to rebuild the 1953 235 engine. This engine has the harmonic balancer with the center design for a manual crank adapter.
What is going to be the best way to remove this harmonic Balancer. I have a puller , but need to know how to remove this center bolt holding the harmonic balancer on.
Thanks, Tim
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | There is no bolt holding the balancer on. The balancer is a press fit and all you need is your puller. I would suggest that you drill and tap the end of the crank so you can use a SBC balancer bolt to secure your balancer and a stud with washers and a dab of grease to draw your replacement balancer onto the crank snout. Having the SBC balancer bolt in the end of the crank will allow you to use a socket and breaker bar to turn over your engine.
I drilled my crank about 5/8" deep with a battery powered drill...it's tapered inside so the drill centers itself in the snout. I'd use a new drill bit/tap and the crank was very easy to drill.
Dave | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | TRK, your balancer should have two screws which you will remove to mount the puller. To push on you'll need to put a socket (I used a 1/2" drive 9/16") in the center of the hand crank lug. Your puller will push against the socket which will push against the end of the crank. Don't push against the lug or you'll damage the balancer and you'll never get it off.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Put penetrant on it the day before you try to remove it.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 | I am including a link to the picture of what I have. Hope the link works. Once removed and new seals and gaskets are in place what is the best way to install. If it is only a pressure fit? What keeps it from flying off? Tim http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2594&l=f0d72&id=1607350326 | | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 | I just went outside to the garage and sprayed PB Blaster on the inside around the crankshaft. Also cleaned around the 2 bolt holes to mount the puller to. Will give it a day or so to soak before trying to remove. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Tim
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | Looks like someone ground off the hand crank lugs. The holes on either side of the center is where the puller will fasten to pull it. The socket trick in my other post should work to get it off. As for the putting it back on I used the BFH (Big F****** Hammer) method. Just be sure to use a drift and strike it on the lugs when driving it on. It's several orders of magnitude tighter than a pressure fit. It's a press fit. They used to use a special tool to center the timing cover seal before driving the balancer on. Some slide the balancer on far enough to center the seal before tightening the timing cover fasteners, tighten one or two, remove the balancer again and tighten the rest. I made my own special tool.  You can use a straight edge across the waterpump pulley to determine when the balancer is on far enough.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | I prefer a few minutes on a hot plate and then gently tapping it on as the BFH method pounds against the third (thrust) main bearing.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 | I was wondering about the pounding making excessive force on the main bearings. I like the idea of heating the harmonic balancer first before installation. How does everyone else reinstall the thing? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 388 | Here are some links to the Chevrolet shop manuals for the removal and installation (and another installation excerpt) of the balancer. It certainly would not hurt to warm up the balancer and to drill and tap the crankshaft nose for a 7/16-14 bolt to draw on the balancer rather than using a hammer. I've done it both ways. I do not believe that I've ever hurt the thrust bearing, but the use of the bolt to draw the balancer on is less stressful. The most important rule is to always pull or pull on the part of the balancer that is in direct contact with the crankshaft, not on the pulley part Is everyone aware of the great links to the manuals, etc. available through the Links section of the Stovebolt site? Hoyt | | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 26 | Thanks Hoyt, I believe you have hit the nail (Harmonic Balancer) on the head. The above links say to drive the thing home. I was just a little leary about that. I think I will preheat the balancer before installing, and I also like the idea of drilling and tapping the crankshaft for a bolt. You guys are the greatest. You've been there, done that , and now it's my turn! Thanks for the help! Tim P.S. More questions to come......... | | |
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