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| | | Forums66 Topics128,043 Posts1,055,540 Members48,425 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 | This is probably a silly question but ...how do you get the pulley off the front end of a generator (1954 6 volt). I took off the bolt already, but it didn't budge. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 | Two or three jaw puller? Just make sure the force is on the center of the shaft, to protect the bearings.
Who is John Galt?
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | A Lisle 38850 puller grabs almost all the way around the pulley. A 2 or 3 jaw gear puller can easily distort the pulley. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | I might not remember this correctly, but if you plan on dissembling the generator, can't you pull off the back, slide the center off and pop the fan and front cover off as a pair after the nut is removed. I recall opening vise jaws wide enough to accommodate the armature but not the front cover and fan. Stick a piece of wood on the threaded stub and give it a slight whap! Make sure you hold the armature so it doesn't fall.
Does this sound right??
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Say there Ken, I was looking at that puller kit and it's not really clear just where or how it grabs the pulley. The method that I use is to heat up the pulley hub a little, not a lot, just enough to expand it slightly. Then I install the nut just flush with the end of the shaft and holding the armature in one hand give the nut a couple of sharp wraps with a soft hammer. Here are a few pix of my restoration: http://rides.webshots.com/album/555161678EhIoCb?start=252 Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 | Thanks for the info and the great pictures. Joe | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | After looking at Mr. Grahams pictorial, I think my recollections are incorrect. The little woodruff key would preclude tapping the pulley off using the method I described. The pulley and key would have to be removed first as the shaft won't go through the bearing ID with the key trapped by the pulley...so much for recollections. Stuart | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 190 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 190 | One of the best things you can do is to set the pulley up so that its facing straight up in the air. Spray it down with penetrating oil and let it sit for awhile. There is a half moon key in there and it will stick on that as well as on the shaft itself. DO NOT use a puller on the pulley. The pulley is a stamped still pulley that will bend very easily. If its stuck good you wont get it off with a typical 3 jawed puller. After you let it soak you may be able to come in from the back side with something very blunt and tap it off that way. You can do like Denny suggested with heating it but be very careful, again, its thin stamped metal that will bend, distort etc. If all this fails find your local starter and alternator shop. A good shop will have the special press and tooling for taking pulleys off. If you cant find one, ship it to me and I can have it off in less than 10 seconds and it will only cost you the shipping. If you do get it off but end up distorting it beyond repair, let me know. I have them NOS. Ken | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 | The machinists on here can take a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate and fabricate a puller adapter with a little lathe time. I've fabricated several things like that for special assembly/disassembly jobs. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 | How about a bearing seperator? it looks like a two sided guillotine, with two long bolts and nuts. You place each half under the bearing (pulley?) and tighten the bolt/nut combo until it slips under the part to be removed, and then use a slotted two bolt puller to pull it. It concentrates the force as close to the shaft as possible. I'd guess that a large enough one to pull a gen pulley would'nt be rediculuosly expensive, and would work really well! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?ItemNumber=3979 Her's a cheapo HF one that shuold be the right size.
Who is John Galt?
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 | I also have good luck with the method that Denny uses. A little heat and a tap with the hammer, they pop right off. It's a straight shaft so they usually are not very tight. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | The Lisle tool works much like a bearing separator, in fact I have used a bearing separator when I couldn't find my tool. I have used heat too. Just anything to keep from distorting the pulley. Some of the pulleys are really flimsy and and if you bend them, you never seem to get them straight again. | | |
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