The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Max Torque 235?

I've been building mostly V8s for the last 20 years. My truck has a 1959 235 in it, bone stock. I use it for hauling stuff, towing, etc, it's a work truck. I want to keep the 6, not likely to run across a 261. What I'm after is maximum torque. It can be done making horsepower at 3000 rpm. The small carb and small ports help velocity, helping low speed torque. Raising compression will help some too I know. I may shave the head a bit to get it to 9.0:1, as I still want to run 87 gas. I am also thinking of a cam, with 112-114 lobe center, moderate lift and short duration. I would think a stock exhaust manifold would be fine since I'm not trying to get rpm out of it, so pressure there should be minimal. Any thoughts? What is a good head casting number? Cam suggestions?

Devin

If you want maximum torque from a 6, then look at the 292

I'm pretty sure ALL 235/261's are max torque! I think the only thing that'll kill the torque is a bunch of cam timing. I would stay with a stock cam, or a really mild cam, and do all the traditional hot rodding, (dual carb with carter webers, fenton or speedway headers, elec. ignition, etc. I bet long tube headers would produce more power, especially @ low r's. I have a set for straight axle trucks. They wont work on my crossmember '62, without mucho reworking!

I don't have enough torque, I want 454 torque out of it. I don't think adding more airflow to the intake would do any good in my case. More volume=lower velocity for same airflow requirements. If I had additional cubes, or wanted to rpm it, I would add more carbs. A good set of headers will help pull the exhaust out of the chambers, but good long tube headers are designed for rpm, and gain almost nothing at low speeds, where I'm focusing. A set of tri-Y headers would be better, but even more money for little gain. I think that narrows it down to adding compression, since that helps add low speed torque, and working with the cam. I have an electronic ignition in a box in my garage, it will go in the next time the points need replaced.

Devin

I milled my head .040", and noticed no gain! I've read the same thing in other posts here. Also, I know the theory is that smaller equals torqueier, but these motors are strangled by low airflow. Opening it up will boost power, in exactly the same rpm range as the peaks are now. It seems like this manifold system is basically the same as the 207/216, perhaps slightly larger. I went through this same learning process with my motorcycle. I bought the biggest harley you can get, so I tailored my mods for "low rpms", and it truly sucked. I finally gave in and did all of my same tricks I use on lighter bikes, and now it huals [censored]! These stovebolts when hotrodded will increase the power in exactly the same range ( seemingly aroud 2k-3k) If I was you I would disregard the torque requirement, and build it the way most on this board do, and concentrate on some better gearing. These motors pulled school buses, 2 ton trucks and all kinds of heavy vehicles in stock form. They dont lack torque! They are not like small blocks in that they probably will always retain their torqueiness with the typical hot-rod techniques.

In any case 454 torque is absolutely unobtainable from a 235! If you want that kinda power, it's easy to get from that kind of engine, but impossible with these! I found a 261 and am doing all the typical stuff and expect it to MAYBE feel as powerful as a choked up smog laden 305 in a heavy vehicle, AND I likely am being optomistic!

What about changing the rear end gear ratio? Do you want torque at the flywheel or rear wheels? An SM420 with a 6:1 low gear seems like you'd have all the pulling power you want unless you want speed too.