The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop '62 chevy c-10 stepside resto project retrofit

Sorry to sound redundant; but I've run into dead ends everywhere. Have a '62 chevy c-10 stepside. 305 v8 & auto-trans already in place. Heard I could retrofit some modern chevy front end parts, power brakes/steering, rear end, etc. onto old trucks. How/where do I find out which modern vehicles I can swap parts from. I'm thinking it's more cost effective to buy a whole car/truck and switch vs. buying multiple kits. For example, I've seen '57 chevy trucks with camaro front end/steering/brakes, etc. Need to know if the same theory applies to the c-10 and any suggested vehicles. I'm sure you've noticed that I'm not a mechanic, but I have access to several to assist with the project. Doing research at this point; have the GM shop manuals and supplements for the truck also. Please help. Thanks to all :>)

why do you want to change the front end ?? Dont recall seeing kits for the 60-62, only 63 up. But honestly havent paid much attention{prefer to keep mine stock}

Here's the issue with the '60-'62, nothing interchanges. The '63-'70 uses a front suspension design that either shares or can be easily adapted to the '71 and later disk brake front end. Even stock rebuild parts are difficult to get for the torsion bar '60-'62. I have heard of guys swapping the entire cross member from thr '73-'87, but I beleive that does take quite a bit of work to get it to fit correctly.
The rear end isn't so bad, as the basic suspension is the saem up to '72, and the later leaf sprin rear can be adapted to work with the coil sping suspension. I will say, though, that unless you're wanting to either change the gear ratio or go to 5 lug wheels, the stock rear end is plenty strong. It's the same rear that was also used under the '55-'59 Task Force trucks. The only issue with them is the lack of an available replacement gear sets, other than a somewhat difficult to get 3.38 ratio.

I can't thank you enough. That resolves one issue. Now I can just replace the power steering unit that's in there. I still would like to do something different with that transmission though. I don't know who installed it, but it revs really high just to shift, and it doesn't feel like I'm getting all there is out of my v8.

My 62 has the front clip from a 63-70 works fine and there wasn't a lot of modifying needed. seemed like the easiest way out.

Thanks for the input. As it turns out; a further review of my vin indicates the my truck is actually a '63, assembled in Baltimore, MD. I just took some photos today; as soon as I figure out how to include them into the postings I will share them. I've seen some very nice '63 customizations. My rear end is a 12 bolt, with coil springs and shocks (don't know the significance of the 12 bolts, but it sounds important to some people).

I'm trying to include photos of the power steering and front end. The previous owner may have already changed it. I'm pretty sure that this is not '63 power steering, I just can't figure out what it is. Pardon my ignorance (I'm not a mechanic), but what is the front 'clip'???

A "front clip" refers to the front section of the frame, including everything from the front bumper mounts to the second crossmember or trans mount, depending on frame. Usually when referenced in modification terms, it means the front frame section from a donor vehicle that is used to upgrade an older vehicle, such as installing a later independant front suspension (usually passenger car based) to a vehicle that originally had a I beam axle. Sometimes, it's done to "upgrade" to a more modern independant front suspension to a car that already has an independant front end. The procedure in either case involves cutting the front of the existing frame off, then welding on the donor clip on. It's actually more complicated that that, involving cross measuring and getting the angles correct, but that is basically what it is. I'm personally not a fan of it. As to your truck, being a '63, there is no need to swap a clip in, you already have a superior suspension than any kit can provide. Upgrades are not bad on the '63-'66, as components from the '73-'87 can be used to upgrade the brakes. If you search the site, doing the brake conversion using '73-'87 parts has been covered extensively.
To answer the question about the signifigance of the 12 bolts, in GM terms, the 12 bolt is the strongest diff available (car or truck) without getting in to a 3/4 ton or larger trucks. It is so named because of 2 things; 1- as you alrady have noticed, it has 12 bolts holding the rear cover on, 2- internally, it also has 12 bolts attaching the ring gear to the carrier. Nice thing about the 12 bolt is that parts are still readily available. There is a minor problem with the early ('63-mid'65) diffs, and that is the axle spline. The early diff used a 17 spline axle, same as its predecessor. The late ones use a 30 spline axle, which is much stronger. There isn't anyone making the 17 spline specific parts 9axle shafts ans side gears), but the 17 spine can be upgraded to a 30 spline by swapping out those parts.
The GM 12 bolt is considered to as strong as the semi-float Spicer/Dana 60 (same axle used under the Dodge/Plymouth Hemi cars).

i am in the process of the crossmember swap on my 62...i found a doner truck and got the crossmember /disc brakes and rear axle pretty cheap (250) the front member went in without too much trouble,just had to drill a couple holes where it joins the frame on either side.i will try to upload a pic if i can

Sounds like your doing the same thing I am I have a 62 panel with a 72 front suspension. Like to know how yours is going. I am planning to put in a 350 with 350 auto and wondering if I need to cut crossmember in back ??? Tom

i can't be sure about that...i'm going with the t-5 in place of the old 3 speed. what rear axle did you use tom? i am doing all the measuring now for the 71 rear axle...need to weld on new perches,they are wider on the 62.

I kinda like my torsion bar set up. You can raise or lower in minutes, and mine, even really low, rides pretty good! The big downside is the price of the rebuild parts, but since they are original now, that means that in 46 years I'll have to replace them. My steering gear is likely pretty shot as it handles much better after I have just greased it, then three days later it's back to it's sloppy ways. Also the steering effort seems a little high.

Anyway, the point is, for the amount you would have to spend on any other option, you can have the stock stuff rebuilt to like new! They sell spindles for discs, that and a sway bar, and I doubt you will get any better performance from the other options.

yes , i was torn about my t- bars also...but i got a great deal i couldn't pass up, all the front member parts and rear axle for $250 ...more of a pain than the spindle kit,but i have more time than money