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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,035 Posts1,055,446 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 176 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 176 | Although most of the nuts, bolts, and screws in my truck were originally painted, many had a blackish finish, or in the case of the electrical system, were zinc plated. What method is used to refinish these parts, especially the blackish ones? What is the blackish finish called? I may just replace the zinc plated fasteners, as I can to get near identical replacements. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 640 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 640 | I didn't get that technical with my restoration. I replaced most of the nuts and bolts. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Thats a black oxide finish. You can come pretty close using Birchwood Casey Super Blue, Liquid Gun Blue. The metal must be very clean, I wire brush and then soak in a good grade solvent like alcohol then dip in you bluing. Don't touch them with you fingers after they come out of the cleaner or the bluing may not take. after they are dry dip them in a heavy oil to prevent them from rusting. You might try Eastwood's catalog, they used to carry black oxide chemicals. Commercial black oxide is more permenent but the gun bluing is a pretty good substitute. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 11/07/2008 4:53 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | Here the kit you need to do an accurate restoration.
Bruce | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 | Here the kit you need to do an accurate restoration.
Bruce It says it comes in a 1 pint container of concentrate... what do you dilute it with and how many parts can you do with one kit?
Neil 1955 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | Never used it but I would assume it's some sort of an acid. In which case you would cut it with water. I don't think my vintage of trucks had many parts which were blackened, could be wrong. I have found most fasteners (and leaf springs) were raw metal. I have mixed two different types of POR products and have come up with a great match for raw metal which holds up well.
Bruce | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | The bolts/screws (in the engine compartment) that hold the inner fender to the outer fender, and the bolts that hold the cover at the top of the grill (in front of the radiator - the grill/radiator shroud?) were, I think black with recessed heads.
Totally Stainless sells those recess-head bolts/screws in a black anodized(?) stainless steel. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 176 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 176 | I ordered the kit and will try it out. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Yes Tim, those and the six bolts that hold the radiator in were blackened. In fact, most, (but not all) of the front clip under the hood was blackened. The solution is used straight, just make up a little basket from a plastic container with holes drilled in it and dip your fasteners (AFTER they are cleeeeaned.) Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
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