The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Glove box installation

Hello everyone,

I just recieved the new glove box for my '50 half ton. Two questions........

1. How do you get the box into position? Can't get it to go through the door opening and going from underneath isn't working either. Seems the fresh air heater might be in the way. Do I have to drop the heater first? No instructions were included.

2. What exact size screw do I use to install the box? No screws were included with the new glove box.

Thanks much!

Mine went in from underneath. But of course I had already removed the heater. Sounds like you may have to drop it.
I bought a set of screws from Classic Parts for $1. Looks like small sheet metal screws, phillips head.
They look like this
Bluedawg

Box insertion:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2504580950098611668aFCvzh

Box inserted:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2747289410098611668WxqSfN

Screws are Flanged Phillips #6x1/2”. You can order a set of glove box mounting screws from Classic Parts of America, #22-105, cost is .99c for the set.
You should have gotten the J-nuts with the box, if not you can probably pick them up at a well supplied hardware store.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Many, many thanks to Denny Graham! The photo of the insertion of the glovebox made it so much easier. I never thought of putting it in at an angle. After looking at your photo I went out to the garage and tried putting the glovebox in using your method and it went in pretty smoothly. Had to bend the edges just a bit to make it fit under the lip of the glovebox door, but it wasn't too hard. I'll pick up the screws tomorrow at Lowe's and will be finished.

Thanks Denny!

Spot

Denny,
Where did you get your glove box from? The one I bought fits horrible- isn't big enough to slip around the flange on the metal dash. (where it fastens).

Same problem with the piece of crap that I got from the vendors so I made my own from weather proof panel board that I got from the upholstery shop.
It wasn't east but here are some pics:
Glove box:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2107026340098611668wGtUYv
Box form:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2116685360098611668AfkbCD

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

i think the screws can be 6x1/2'' in panheads or as mine are selftap sheet metal ones w/ a big head. just about anything will work that's smallish.
you can add a simple lamp when you open it.
any ''flaps'' should have a 'self grounding door post jamb switch', about $3. and a simple flush mount interior courtesy lamp or licence plate lamp, $5. within an hour you mount the lamp inside the new glovebox inside top, a little wire and a simple 'L' shaped light metal bracket mounted to the two (or one) screw to the left side. the switch on the bent racket that is ground. next wire from the cigarette lighter to power the light. better to put the jamb switch on the non drivers side so when you reach in from the drivers side you won't have an obstruction in the way.
boom
when the door opens. light to see inside.
I also sealed my glovebox top because the old weather striping around my old window was leaking. so w/ a little brush I hand painted the seams up top.
beats $15 to $54.00 bucks

Actually the original screws are, "Flanged Phillips #6x1/2”. Which you can order a set of from Classic Parts of America, part number 22-105, "glove box mounting screws" cost is .99c for the set. The original screws were not pan head screws.
Then it will be as it came from the factory, that is if you can get the cardboard reproduction to fit around the flange with out tearing it in to a dozen pieces and throwing it across the garage and into the garbage can like I did! And that’s why I elected to make my own version.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I will add that I have yet to be able to align the glovebox holes with the metal flange on the dash. Yikes! I've buggered up the sides of the new box already trying to just get it installed. Don't know if I'll be able to align the holes and get the sides of the new box to arrive in the proper places at the same time.

You're right....this repro box isn't fitting as well as I would have liked it to have, but I'll press on.

Spot

I even tried to split the seam to get it to fit over the flange but still ended up slitting the corners. So it's not just you Spot. The one I got was from Chevy Duty.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Just shoehorn it in there the best you can and close the door. At least you won't have to look at it every time you drive it

Hi, I have a 1949 Chev PU 1/2 ton built in Canada on July 15 1949.The first thing I bought was the glove box liner. I had a lot of problems making it fit until I removed the staples from the back panel and removed it,then it went in,then I was able to roll the liner until the screw holes lined up, next I was able to install the inner metal inner trim ring and the screws( in my case they were #6 countersunk screws for the trim ring), next I mounted the back with small binder clips because I knew that I would be removing it again . NOTE: With sheet medal type screws always put screw in hole and turn backwards until you feel the thread engage then screw in.

Our point exactly Hippy, why in the world should you have to go through all of that to install a new part. Why, because the reproduction liners are a piece of crap, that's why.
Denny Graham
Sandwihc, IL

There are two parts currently being sold for AD trucks that are notorious for not fitting, these glove box liners and the inner-to-outer cowl parts.

It sure would be nice if a reputable US company like Mar K would start making those.

Heck, Denny you even made an accurate glove box liner yourself... It would be cheap and simple to have a rule die made to cut the parts out and some simple tooling to assemble it.

Well, I'm half way there, I got the deep throat air stappler to staple them. The other problem is finding the correct material. I used weather proof panel board and I laminated it with a leather grained book binding material that I got from a binding supply. Then the corners or folds have to be compressed in a die. Other than that it's a piece of cake making a gove box liner that is as sturdy as the original.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

what about wetting or lightly soaking the forward lip in a pan of water. that way it might soften up that edge a little and you can then wrap/stretch it in and around to land the screws to hold it while it dries. i realize the soaked portion will migrate back but just watch it for a couple of minutes.
it works w/ my 1 to in some cases 40+ year old gaskets for my motorcycles.



my .01 cent answer ......... what with the depressed lousy economy and all. that all i got no more.

when all is done i have painted the top so when my window gasket leaks again my stuff won't