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I have a leaky master cylinder on my 50 3100 with drums all around. The wheel cylinders, shoes, and drums have all been replaced with new ones. Now the brakes work well when there is fluid in the master cylinder, but it still leaks.

I want to switch to a Power brake setup.

Before I purchase anything I would like to know if anyone here has installed one of Classic truck parts Power break setup. here is a link to the one I am talking about: Classic parts power brakes drum/drum

Is it worth the 325$ is it difficult to get proper vacuum? What about other companies kits?

Thanks for the help

I have the CPP boosted brake kit with 6 lug front disk and it works GREAT! I'm thinking about putting them on my suburban at some point.

I tapped the vacuum off the manifold where it connects for the wipers. I replaced my vacuum wipers with electric, another worth while upgrade.

The boosted disk brakes were an easy install, you will need to replace the existing lines for the dual chamber but, I enjoyed bending and flaring the lines. Be sure and get a good American made flaring kit and you should be good to go. One thing I learned on Stovebolt and should be mentioned. When you are tightening new flare fittings always back them off a couple of time and re-tighten this will ensure a tight fit with no leaks. I had no leaks using this technique.

A good set of flare wrenches will be a good reward for this job

Big Blue - see my post for mix & match. The under floor power brake booster works great on drum brakes.

luke, i got my complete kit form here.

http://www.performanceonline.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16775&cat=1061&page=1

now that it is done, i am very happy with the results. but it was a real pain to do the conversion, and this place has horrible customer service.

you can search my post history for a fully story on the conversion, but i ran into many problems.

if i had to do it over again, i would just buy the booster and required caliper and master brackets, then buy the master and calipers form a local auto supply shop.

leonard

'''''Be sure and get a good American made flaring kit and you should be good to go. ''''''


I did my whole rig w/ a very similar set up. disc drum new lines booster/power master
just like you show. I made them from buying premade lines from a flaps and bent to fit. couplers to join the longer lines, 'T's to split or tee off to a brake hose along the way. i had to cut them. i didn't buy a really good flaring tool because
1 very expensive
2 i took all my lines after i made and bent them to fit to a brake shop and had them flare the cut end for me. it took about 10 minutes w/ a really good tool. it was about $20 for all six ends. took them home and put it all together. custom fit.
i also found a surplus store that sold 14'' , 1/4''ID plain old cheap screen door springs, stretched them out to 28'' and slid them over the brake lines for protection as shown here.
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=2748800-R1-045-21.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=DSC00493_0007.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=579990-R1-012-4A.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=579990-R1-024-10A.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=579990-R1-036-16A.jpg

Thanks for the input guys. I have decided to keep the drums all around for now, but go with the power setup from classicparts.com
Since its getting cold around here again I may just have to wait for spring or at least a mild weathered weekend when I can fire up the heat in the garage!

I'll let you guys know how it turns out!

wait fo some vendor to put them ON SALE
i'll bet they are made by the same company.

Hi! All
Just finished installing the front disc/rear drum kit that I also got from Performance Online on my 57 chevy 3200 truck keeping the stock I-Beam axle & 6 lug wheels. I am also doing the power steering kit that I got from them. Everything is installed. I am ready to replace all the brake lines & need some help. My question is how to plumb Combination Valve & do I still need the Proportioning Valves, & Residual Pressure Valves.
Thanks Phil

phil,
here is the layout i did with my truck, but i DID NOT use a metering valve up front.

http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/images/pic02_brakefacts.gif

for the front, from the master cylinder/proportioning valve, you want a 2 lb residual valve, then to a "T" fitting, then to each caliper.

for the back, from the master cylinder/proportioning valve, a 10 lb residual valve then into an adjustable prop valve, then to the "T", then out to each rear wheel.

i wanted to have extra adjustability so i added the rear adjustable prop valve for fine tuning, but you dont have to run one, and up front they told me i did NOT need a metering valve, just use a "T".

they even told me i didnt really need a 2 lb residual valve for the fronts, but adding one would not hurt, so i did anyway.

my master bolts to the original frame location, under the floor board

any more questions, feel free to ask, and good luck.

leonard

Hi! Leonard
Thanks for the info. I believe I have the same kit that you have. My master cyl. came with a brass combination valve on the bottom of the master cyl. it has two ports for the front brakes & one port in the rear for the rear brakes. The diagram doesn't show the combination valve, did you use it or not?
Thanks Phil

When I converted my 62 to Disc up front the fellows asked me if I was going to lower my truck and told them no just stock height. They make three different height spindles to use with your truck. They also told me to be sure and use Truck Disc setup for my truck and of GM Quality as the company I bought mine from the componets were made in America all of the componets including the Spindles! They also said do not use converted car disc Brakes setups like some companies sell for Stovebolt use. Stating that they are just not heavy enough for trucks. Be sure to ask if everything is AMERICAN MADE your life could depend on it.
62Blue
Don

I was referred to the following place when I posted a thread about converting to power brakes, but while also converting to a firewall mounted unit. They are based in North Carolina and are about half the price of a CPP unit and have gotten all around good reviews. Im ordering my firewall unit tonight. Im just getting the pedal assembly as I got a booster and master cylinder off of a (I think) 2003 or so Chevy Silverado 1500.

Most of the brackets use a booster with a 3.5"x3.5" bolt spacing, and as long as the push rod is the right length you can use a booster and master cylinder out of a production vehicle. So if you have a auto salvage yard near by, you could save yourself a bit of cash by just getting the pedal assembly and getting a booster and master cylinder off of a production vehicle.

http://www.piratejack.net/Power-Brake-Units/PBUCT4754-A-Chevy-Truck-1947-54-Frame-Mount-7-Dual.html


here is a bit of info on boosters and M/C's
http://www.piratejack.net/Tech-Support/Booster-Master-Cylinder-Specifcations.html

Im getting mine from this place, same distance but a few bucks cheaper. They also have my unit in stock at the moment.

http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/PBUCT4754-A-p-chevy_power_brake_units.html

hello phil.
yes, mine came with the prop valve under the master cylinder, and also mine has 2 ports for the front brakes.

yes, i used the combination / prop valve.

good luck, and dont forget the power steering pics when you get a chance.

leonard