The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
1 members (Movingeric), 487 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,777
Posts1,039,270
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#458691 10/05/2008 8:23 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 165
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 165
headscratchAre the felt packing grease seals for the front hubs of a 1.5 Ton available anywhere? Everything I have seen are replacement grease seals. Are there any preferances on which are better?

Thanks

Kevin smile



Kevin
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I'ld go with the lip seals, they hold water out better in my opinion,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
Ive replaced the seals in my COE with felt and they worked great, both front and rear. I bought discs of it at McMaster Carr and cut to size. A circle cutter for a drill works wonders. I had to use felt as the seal was inside a lipped flange on the truck. No way to use a standard oil seal there.

Recently I went through both front and rear axles and pulled the lipped portions off and plan on using newer nitrile seals for all the hubs, because my rear hubs were made to run grease and there was a seal which rode on the axle nut to keep the oil from transferring into the hubs. Up until recently they worked great, but I noticed a small stain inside the tire and pulled it apart to find that the outer seal had failed (due to pitting on the axle nut) and that fluid had gone through the hub and past the felt seal contaminating the brake linings.

An expensive mistake, but live and learn.

Good luck, Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 165
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 165
Thanks Scott and Jeff. thumbs_up McMaster is a good site.

Kevin



Kevin
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
I have also made the felt seals, for front and rear axles on a 1929 Hudson car.
Buy the felt from McMaster Carr, and also a gasket cutter from them. It has two blades, one cuts the inside diameter, and one the outside, all at the same time. Sharpen the blades as sharp as you can get them, tack the felt to a board, and carefully cut out the felt donuts. The circle cutter is not supposed to be used in the drill press, but I ran it slow with a slack belt, worked great, just don't stick your fingers in there.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.047s Queries: 14 (0.044s) Memory: 0.6125 MB (Peak: 0.6750 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 09:07:05 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS