The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Side cover gasket

You know what "they" say about hindsight. When I was first getting my 38 running and had to pull the head & replace the lifters/pushrods, I painted the valve cover, air filter canister and side cover semi flat black. I knew it wasn't close to the original color but it seemed like the thing to do at the time. When I replaced the side cover I used some black silicone gasket maker along with the Felpro gasket but it failed along the bottom so the side of the engine was always oily. Since I'm going to finish her up this winter (if you can actually say they are ever finished), I decided to repaint a bit closer to the Chevy gray. I got the valve cover and air box painted & today I tackled taking the side cover off. I don't know how the seal failed because I had a B!TCH of a time getting the cover off. Getting all of the old gasket & sealer off is also a real B!TCH. In case I ever have to pull it again (heaven forbid) I don't want to have to go through this hassle again. What tricks do you all have to get the side cover to seal without making it almost impossible to get off again? This is the early 216 with the full height side cover.

I'd make sure that the gasket surfaces are all good and flat, esp make sure that the cover isn't warped. Also check that where the bolts go threw aren't crushed in either. The best luck that I've had with gaskets on the side of an engine is to use 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive to glue the gasket to the cover. If you use this make sure that you have a even bead all the way around so the gasket is glued all the way around and doesn't make a space where oil could leak threw. Then make sure you clean the block good with the lacquer thinner or brake clean and clean the bolt holes good. I always also use a little bit of pipe sealer on the bolt threads. The only down side to using the 3M weatherstrip adhesive is its hard to get off, but now impossible. Usually a razor blade and a good wire wheel will take it off.

Good Luck
Don

I don't have a brand name..just some chemistry. Find a product that adds thickness to the gasket..Not a glue..There are many..probably silicon based. The process is also important. If you put a layer of this product on..let it sit a while otherwise you'll just squeeze it all out on assembly. I just re-built an NFL using this method. No Freakin Leaks.(that's the cleaned up version)..Just think adding to the gasket thickness..not gluing. Silicon gasket sealers peel off easily.

Good luck,

Keith

The only Permatex sealants I had luck with were Hi-tack, Indian head and Aviation Form-a-gasket liquid with brush in the cap.
It's very similar but improved over the old time shellac sealer. Any parts store carries it.
After a few years of daily use, the gaskets still hold up and seal. Removal is also much easier than the gooey stuff...

The silicon stuff is only helpful when surfaces are not smooth. Too much of it and chunks can get loose and plug the smaller passages.

The cork gaskets are just fine, when both surfaces are level and smooth.
They are supposed to be wet, but not leak and bolts don't need a lot of torque.

Take a close look at the side cover. There is a very good chance that someone has over tightened it before and it is buckled between the holes. I usually lay them on a board, but a ball peen hammer on the hole and tap it with another hammer to get the buckle out between the holes.

You should never use silicone gasket maker on gaskets, it's an either/or situation. Most times, if you use silicone on a gasket, it will actually make the gasket slip out of place, making it leak. The only exeption to this is in the corner of an intake manifold or oil pan that uses multi-peice gaskets. Best to use Hi-Tack, Indian Head, or Aviation Sealer if using gaskets, or just use the silicone on its own. Personally, I prefer to use the grey dealer OEM grade silcone from the dealership (last tube I had came from the local ford dealer, but GM and Chrysler use the same stuff) or Saf-T-Lok brand. Both are exellent. Master #7 silcone is also very good.

I used the black silicone gasket maker on the cover side of the gasket & I'm having to wire wheel it off. I don't remember using anything on the gasket on the engine side but it was stuck bad. I'll check out the Permatex sealers today.

I was in a class years ago where a Fel-Pro rep stated that there was no need to use sealer in addition to gaskets. The gasket was there to do the sealing.

With that being said, i will use various chemicals depending on situation. On something like your side cover, do, of course, make sure the mating surfaces are as close to flat as possible. If it wer mine I would then likely use Permatex Super 300 to glue the gasket to the cover, and make sure the block side is dry and clean.

I use this same method on the valve covers on my BB race car and have to change the gaskets every couple of years, but I pull them probably 10-20 times a year for inspection and adjustment.

Devin