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#453082 09/17/2008 12:11 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 443
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 443
My cab looked in fair shape when I got my truck, but rust is like an iceburg. The damage you see is usually the small part and the majority of it is hidden until you start tearing things apart. eek I had some rust through in the eyebrow above the windshield and figured I would patch it and move on. I did the smaller rust repairs first. I replaced both rocker/step panels, both inner & one outer lower hinge pillars,& both cab corners. I should have taken on the largest repair first. If I knew what I had to do on the roof along with the other panel replacements I would have tried to find a better cab somewhere. I cut out the inner roof above the windshield (it was rusted through too) and found the entire front full of mice nests and lots of rust, all the way back over the doors. I got a good roof cut from JIMBO and decided the only way to fix this mess is replace the entire outer AND inner roof panels. I am posting the PHOTOS HERE as I progress on it. Looks like I have a lot of welding to do. I was saying today what a job this is and my 12 year old gransdon said " just think how nice its going to look when you get it done." He's right, and it keeps me going. smile


1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery
My Photobucket shots

The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 443
A
Shop Shark
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 443
I got the roof off today & added some new PHOTOS . I am sure glad I took measurements before I cut it off. The back panel moved back about 1/4 inch. I was able to move it by hand so I can line it up when I am ready to weld. Now I have to go get a sand blaster for the inner rails of the roof & clean everything up so I can weld the relacement roof on. I think I am going to get one from Tractor Supply. Harbor Freight has one for less, but I don't fully trust the Chinese imports, unless Tractor Supply imports them too, seems like its hard to find anything that isn't imported.


1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery
My Photobucket shots

The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
K
New Guy
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K Offline
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
I believe the sandblasters that Tractor Supply and Harbor Freight sells are the same thing and are made in China.

A couple years ago I bought one made by Brut Mfg. They're in Ohio and are made in the USA. I actually got mine from Amazon.com but I don't think they carry them any longer. Here's a link to their website.

Brut Mfg

They're not cheap but mine works great. I have the 101H model.




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C
Shop Shark
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I feel for you Allen, I'm struggling with my own rusted hulk of a cab that's twisted to boot. After days of struggle I finally got the cab squared up and the driver side door to fit... it was hanging half way over the drip rail when I started.

Your grandson is right... just keep at it and remember these days as you're cruising down the road one day and someone gives you the big Thumbs Up!

BTW, I bought a Clark syphon blaster at TS and highly recommend it. Best $100 I've spent and it's made in China just like 90% of everything else.


Woody
Your Brother in Bolthood

My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

Save the VINTAGE DOOR ART! Please contribute photos.
Door Art Collection
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4
Extreme Gabster
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If you don't want to go the blaster route, I've found that Norton Rapid Strip discs get the paint off really fast and get the rust, too. I bought one for my 7" grinder/polisher, it works really fast and you don't need to clean up any sand when you are done. They go for about $15.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
Joined: Dec 2006
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A
Shop Shark
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Posts: 443
Thanks for the comments on sandblasting & strip discs. I went the cheap route & bought a 40LB pressure blaster at HF this morning.It took me 2 hours to put the darn thing together, the directions stink and the threads on the fittings were terrible. :mad:I used about 100 yards of Teflon tape & hope it seals up OK. If it works anywhere near as good as I hope it will, it will be a good price to pay for what I need done. Going to take it to a friends body shop this weekend so I can use his industrial compressor. cool
got a little more done on the ROOF after getting the blaster. I think I FINALLY got the last mouse nest out from above the back glass between the inner & outer back panel. smile Thankfully no rust there either.
I have put off replacing the roof because it is a big job and I didn't know what I was going to find. The drivers side windshield post is rusted because it was stuffed full of mouse nest/crap, but I have a section of post I can splice in. Everything else is pretty much surface rust.


1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery
My Photobucket shots

The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)


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