The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Source for a "Long" TO bearing?

There has been considerable discussion about "the longer" throwout bearing vs the standard 1-7/8" one for a 216 or 235. My former clinkity clinkity noise was resolved by finding a NOS pressure plate that didn't rattle when shaken by hand prior to installation. The problem now (or more accurately in the future) is that there is no adjustment left in the clutch linkage. I keep hearing about the long TO bearing but have been unable to locate one.

Does anyone have a source with part numbers for this part?

Thanks,

Don

Any Napa auto parts should be able to pull one off the shelf. They used those T/O bearings forever. Make it simple for them... tell em it is for a 65 chevy truck with a 4 speed

I measured the long TO brg. & it measures 1 7/8 in. The short one measures 1 1/8 in. I don't think there is any other available.

The longest 1965 release/throwout bearing I can find on Rockauto.com is 1.90" long (1 7/8" is 1.88" long). The Master Parts books also shows the 1 7/8" bearing as the longer bearing.

Well, it looks like the question is finally settled. I'll start looking into modifying the linkage (bellcrank and adjustment bolt?)to see if I can get another 1/2" or so pedal play taken up.

Thanks so much for the replies.

Don

Doesn't the pressure plate determine the TO bearing, that's been my experience.

The spring pressure plate uses the short TO bearing and the diaphragm pressure plate uses the long TO bearing.

Larry

Don, Do you have any pictures of the linkage? It sounds like it might not be stock.

I will soon as more than likely I'll be putting the truck up on jacks today, assuming the STOCK MARKET doesn't divert my attention. It's no telling what is stock and what's not on my truck as it was certainly used for its intended purpose as a work truck since being produced in Baltimore in 1941. The more I get into it the the more I learn and spend. I'm not complaining, as it is a learning experience albeit an expensive one.

When I got the truck 18 years ago it had a '52 216 in it. It now has a '57 235 which originally was bolted up to a Thriftmaster automatic. The clutch pressure plate is the standard "Rockford" or diaphragm type and the TO bearing I got with it seems to match i.e., 1-7/8". The flywheel is still the correct "wide tooth" to mesh with the 6v starter. The face of the flywheel was slightly skim cut when trying to diagnose the clinkity problem.

Right now, everything is honky-dory--shifting smoothly and such. There is just excessive clutch pedal play with the adjustment nut fully tightened. As things wear in the future I expect to experience slippage for which I won't have a way to adjust for.

We'll keep this thread alive as I get solutions and photos. Perhaps it will help other 'Bolters down the road.

Thanks for the help you guys have provided over the years.

Don

The

hi don. i had the same problem on my 46 2 ton with 60 model 235 and
sm 420 i got a simple solution for you take and unscrew the little ball that the clutch fork pivots on and put a couple or three washers under it you will be amazed how much it moves the
fork forward in the bell housing. i think mine came from wear on all of those parts adding up. philip

Hey thanks Philip, I'll take a look at that when the time comes. The fork and ball are new but that may be a really simple solution. Its not exactly rocket science is it? Just good old common sense, but then again, I never mind asking as I know others have gone through and solved the same issues.

Don

Don, If I understand your post you say you have to much free play. That is good. As the clutch wears you loose free play. As long as the clutch disengages you are good to go, and have lots of adjustment left.

I must be thinking backwards then. The clutch adjustment nut is fully tightened down to the last thread on the adjustment screw. There is 2-1/2" (unable to adjust to 3/4" as specified) of free play in the pedal. The clutch disengages fine right now. I would have thought that as the clutch disc wears that I would need to tighten up on the adjustment nut to maintain the specified 3/4" clutch pedal free travel before disengagement begins.

There are also multiple forks that fit the bellhousing. The later '54-up 235 bellhousings have a slight difference in fork design than the 216 bellhousing. They both fit, but one has more slack than the other. I ran into this when putting the 11" clutch on my 261 into a '50 bellhousing.

Another clue added. Thanks

Just a quick follow-up...

4ontheFloor -- My '57 235 is bolted up to a '41 216 bell housing.

Pre '68Dave -- My camera decided to go on the blink. I'll try to get a photo tomorrow if I can get the Casio working again. Seems like everything goes at once!

Don