The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 rear seal

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1937 chevy 216 Engine. Block is all together,everything lined up and I am ready to install the pan and gaskets. I have heard stories about the seal leaking using the cork or rope seal supplied with the gasket kit. Does anyone have experience with this problem and what is the best way to make sure that there are no leaking problems.

thanks

Here are a couple of threads that where in the Inliners' BB on the topic. I am planning on using the Best kit on my next 216 build unless I get better advice.Link #1 Link #2

Hoyt

I guess that you are talking about the cork pan gaskets that go on the ends. I found it necessary to soak the two end pieces so that I could draw down the pan. I would recommend using a little RTV in the corners.

Am I correct in my understanding that the cork seal is for the ends of the oil pan and the rope seal is the rear main bearing seal? Is there a rope seal in the oil pan gasket set? (It's been a long time since I rebuilt a 216).

The sets that I have seen usually include both the "rope" seal and the neoprene version, for the rear main bearing seal.

Thanks for all the information. I am good to go!

thanks again

Thanks for the great info, especially the posting by OldCarKook over at Inliners. We all go through similar problems and that's the great thing about the 'Bolt - share the solutions!

Am I correct in that dropping the rear end (allowing me to pull the torque tube back) and removing then removing the tranny, that I can then remove the pan, loosen the bearing caps and try the rear main seal replacement without removing the engine?

Thanks,

Don

You don't need to drop the transmission. I've changed dozens of seals by simply removing the pan and the rear main cap, and loosening the rest of the main bearing caps. There's enough wobble in the transmission input shaft to allow the crank to drop a little, and there are tools available to ease the upper rope seal out, and install the new one.

Lisle tool company makes a seal remover/installer kit, but a big sheet metal screw, vise grips, a piece of copper wire, and a razor blade were my seal-changing tools for a long time.

Old cork oil pan end seals can get brittle, so soaking them in hot, almost boiling water for a few minutes restores their flexibility. Use a little RTV sealer on the ends where they meet the pan side rail gaskets, but don't overdo it on the sealer.
Jerry

Good to know that I can be fixed, it's the truck I'm really worried about! Actually, your solution will allow me to minimize the teardown until I have to renew the TO bearing with a longer one if and when I find the correct one. Thanks,

Don

Jerry,

Thanks again for the input. This "seal" is exactly like valve stem and braided pump packing. It's probably the most common shaft packing in use in the world. Chesterton (take a look at the link and see what I mean) and Crane were the most common manufacturer's when I went to sea and we stocked both graphite impregnated, as well as teflon impregnated, and wire wound, depending on application. We also had a supply of Packing Hooks (as we called them) which are basically like cork screws affixed to a flexible cable with a "T" handle on the other end. You just crank that sucker in and pull the packing out. This application of course was using multiple rows of "rings" and staggering the butted ends. The packing is tightened down by a packing gland. Most of our pumps were converted to mechanical seal but most valve stems, except the very large and high pressure valves, still use braided packing like that used on the rear main seal.

Gosh, I do feel stupid at times, almost like I forgot everything I've learned over the years. I just haven't worked on this particular piece of machinery, the 235, and don't mind asking questions of those that have. If there is an easier way to do something and someone knows how I sure don't mind asking.

That being said--I have another question. I've removed the entire front clip (hood, fenders, radiator, grill, etc) due some other punch out items I need to take care of. Since the truck is in this torn down state do you guys think it would be easier to renew the rear main seal packing in place or go ahead and yank the engine and do it? I'm also still a bit nervous about the clutch play situation described in my Source for a "Long" TO bearing topic. I'm still awaiting an answer from Pre '68Dave about the clutch play, but other than the other two solutions offered (one being shimming the fork ball and the other perhaps another type of fork) I'm reluctant to pull the engine if there is no expectation of solving the problem.

As always comments are certainly welcome and desired.

Thanks,

Don

Back in the Model A Ford days, water pump shaft packings were replaced exactly that way. The gland nut used to tighten the packing was difficult to reach, and the simplest way to snug it was to use a pair of thin-jaw pliers. What we call "Channel-locks" today were known as "water pump pliers" by the generation of mechanics I learned from back in the early 50's.

If you're that close to pulling the engine, it might be a wise thing to do, as long as you've got a heavy-duty engine stand to bolt it to while you're working on it. Those engines get awfully awkward to handle once they're out of the motor mounts. They're top-heavy, and they weigh more than a small block V-8.
Jerry

For peace of mind and a better working environment the engine is coming out.

This sort of reminds me of when I was 18 or 19 and could pull my VW engine in 20 minutes flat. The last time I pulled it was on Redwood Street smack in the middle of Baltimore Maryland. A few of my classmates helped lift the rear end up on some timbers that were being used to build the Baltimore Subway and I then put a piece of cardboard underneath the '68. After unbolting the engine and dropping it onto my chest my buddies grabbed my ankles and pulled me and the engine from beneath the chassis. We then carried the engine into the shop of the engineering school I was attending for overhaul-- ah, those were the days...

Don