The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (37 GC, Otto Skorzeny, Ponchogl, 2 invisible), 156 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,147
Posts1,056,805
Members48,454
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
I have a 53 GMC 9300 1/2 ton with the original brake system on it. Just put it on the road for the first time yesterday. The brakes seemed to be adjusted properly. The pedal was hard and it didn't move very much. After driving it for a few miles I noticed that there was starting to get a drag to the truck so I headed home. The brakes were kind locked up and hot when I got there. After sitting for a while and cooling down the wheels turn free again.

My questions are...
Should the rod on the master cylinder move in very much, cause mine doesn't?

When adjusting the star wheel on the drums, how much if ant drag should there be and which way do you turn to loosen and tighten ?

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
1. There should be a little free-play in the master cylinder rod.

2. The brake shoes should not be touching the drum after a proper adjustment. Usually, you adjust the shoes until they just touch the drum and then back off 5 clicks.

These procedures are described in the GMC Maintenance Manual (available from reproduction parts vendors on onl-line and on eBay).

#2 is at least part, if not all, of your problem.

Tim

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
Thanks for the reply Tim...I tried a couple of things yesterday. First I backed off all the adjusters as far as they would go. They moved freely so I assume they went all the way. Took it for a drive and same thing, in a couple of miles I could fee the drag and by the time I got home they were real tight.

I was reading in the shop manual about master cylinder cleaning so, I removed mine and took it apart. It was dirty inside and I noticed a few holes plugged. Also, at this point when I spun the wheels they all spun very freely. I thought I found the problem. I cleaned everything and unplugged the holes then installed the master cylinder and finished up by bleeding all the lines. Well, the drag was back on the tires that spun freely when the master cylinder was removed. I'm thinking that I might have some sort of master cylinder problem. Any ideas ?
Dave

Last edited by Wolfs53; 08/18/2008 11:31 AM.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Did the piston move freely in the master cylinder?

Do the three rubber hoses in the brake lines look OK?

Sounds like it is time to rebuild/replace the master cylinder and maybe the wheel cylinders.

Maybe someone else will post better advice.


Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
Yes, the piston move freely in the cylinder.

I'm not sure what three rubber hoses you mean.

The wheel cylinders look good. No leaks or anything, and they return to the seated position when I removed the master cylinder.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-59--Brake-Hose--1_2--3_4-Ton/productinfo/71%2D305/

Two on the front and one on the rear. Crawl under your truck and trace the brake lines from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. The two front hoses provide the flexibility for the front wheels to turn.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
Oh okay....those are all new.
All the lines have been replaced on the truck.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
You're out of my league, now (the bush and shade-tree league). Let's hope that someone else can provide a better diagnosis.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
Thanks Tim

I have a gut fealing it's the master cylinder thats the problem. I think I will order a new one and see what happens they are not that expensive. I don't think the pressure is being released when pressure is taken off the brake peddle.

Dave

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
You didn't say weather you checked the push rod free play like TC sugested. Ithink it is not letting the piston come back all the way. There should be a small amount of free play in the pedal before it pushes on the cyl. Ther is an adjustment on the rod. Some use an eccentric bolt. You loosen the nut & turn the bolt to adjust it.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0