The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Field recovery 56 chev 3100 TF

I just brought my 56 home (3A56Sxxxxx) again....sat in a field after a divorce 5 years. Not even sure where to start, Frame is straight, body is not. Right side was hit several years ago. Teardrop is flattened, bed is mangled, all the usual rusty areas. Has anybody used the rear cab skins that are now offered? I have seen them on-line from roof line down and below window body line down, both go from door to door. My floor pan appears to be OK toe boards are not. Quality Parts and ease of fitment are a priority. This is expected to be 3-5 years to complete. Frame has what appears to be primarily surface rust. When I get that far what suggestions can you experianced rebuilders offer to prep/paint/coat for long term preservation/driver. As I rebuild I plan to upgrade the brakes, but keep everything else pretty much OEM.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Brad

I hope I did this right... online photos are new for me.


http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn343/brsdb3381/Tuesday_MY_56_Chevy/tuesday4.jpg

http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn343/brsdb3381/

Brad

From your pictures it looks like a lost cause. I suggest selling it to me cheap and get another.
Just kidding of course. I have bought a lot of body parts & patch panels from American Classic Trucks and have had some fit good & some that need to be "altered" a little bit. They all need a little customizing I think, no matter where they come from. I have heard Dynacorn makes pretty good panels but have never used them. If I can save a few bucks I don't mind a little cutting/welding/filling.
It is hard to tell from your picture, but if you wanted to replace the back panel because of the right cab corner I would straighten the panel before replacement. Maybe repair the dented area and just replace the lower corner secton. The back panel is about $400 plus shipping and a lot of work. The lower panel is $26.00 & about $15.00 shipping, and no where near as much work. You can check my Photobucket link and see where I have replaced the lower sections.

ya did it fine [but you coulda posted in the general forum], and good luck with the project - always good to see another TF resurrected

I think the cab backs are prolly good quality, being from the same place as the new doors, but I'd get the bed off and make sure you need that much, might be able to straighten a lot of it and use smaller patches, like just the lower corners

for starters, use epoxy primer on everything [maybe ZeroRust or POR on the frame], for the long term, and to protect the work as you go until there's enuff done to use paint .... also prime behind panels and inside spaces as much as possible or use a good rust inhibiter

Bill

Does anybody know if the repop panels are 18(OE) or 22 gauge metal? I just bought a 2K hoist and hope to pull the bed next end. It looks like 4 bolts and the tail light wireing, anything else I should look for? OR look out for?
Thanks
Brad

I don't think you'll find any OE 18ga on the truck, other than floor and formed stiffeners, and the repro panels available for the TF series now are the correct 20 and 22ga where appropriate ... I recall there being 6 bed mount bolts on a short box

Bill

Hi Guys,
I got the bed off and found good metal all the way across to the mangled part on the passenger side. lower cab corners are shot as expected...But not sure of the best way to fix right rear of the cab.
On the bed I believe I can save fenders and tailgate chains...
between the accident and rust there is not much saveable stuff on bed left.
I uploaded to the a bunch of pictures photobucket link and would very much appreciate any ideals and suggestions to fix the cab.

I got her started today too, fixed the loose starter connections & took bench grinder to points . fired right up after 5 years

Thanks
Brad

I got the seat and floor covering out tonight and found a whole lot of good metal. Not as much patching as I thought I would need.
I also started a new thread trying to ID what the seat came out of in interiors.

http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn343/brsdb3381/inside%20cab/

Brad

I took a 9" grinder/sander with a wire cup on it and found a 3/4" tall "S" inside a 1" circle. This is on every crossmember I have brushed, any idea what it means?
Amazing what a course wire cup will clean at 5000 rpm
There are some areas that will be impossable to get inside the frame rails, Suggestions?


Thanks Brad