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Joined: Jun 2003
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O.K,

So I just purchased a 1953 3100 (1/2 Ton Stepside) from a friend for $4,200. It is in very good condition with little rust, rebuilt 54 straight 6 (what kind I don't know) good interior and good paint job. It doesn't really need anything but I am planning to rebuild the bed. A couple of questions, which will probably betray my ignorance on this truck but that is why I am here.

1. It has a four speed on the floor with a granny gear. Would this have been the original transmission style?

2. It has a 54 straight 6, how do I determine what type it is?

3. It appears that the previous owner converted it to have two carbs, though everything else appears to be stock, in the engine bay. The vacuum advance does not appear to work. I have confirmed that there are no leaks and that the valve does work, using the human suck pump (mouth). Is it possible that the two carbs are reducing the manifold vacuum by having lower pressure drop and thereby preventing the vacuum advance from working?

4. During in-gear deceleration (acceleration in the oposite direction for physics fans) it grumbles and backfires very weakly. Could this be caused by the vacuum advance not working?

Anyway, I have already read a fair amount here, been lurking for a while. I have found the site very valuable and have already purchased some books and basic parts from recommeded suppliers. My 1 1/5 year old son already loves the truck so we are doing great. Now I just have to figure out how to get the car seat to work.

Hugh

Joined: Jul 2002
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Greetings Hugh, welcome to Stovebolt.
You will find a lot of helpful info around here.
- get a pen and paper and start righting down the numbers on the block and post them, pics would help, too!

- as for the twin intake, it'll only give you grief. You should take it off and send it to me... I'll trade ya for a single unit grin

Pics please!
whizzerick

Do check out my website, I own a daily driven 1953 1300 (same as yours, but Canadian model)


1953 Chevrolet 1300 - Daily driver
Collecting Vintage Whizzer motorbikes
http://www.whizzerick.com
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'Bolter
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Welcome to the 'bolt, Hugh.

1. If reverse is left and back (next to 2nd), you have the SM-420 transmission. IMHO, it's one of the best manual gearboxes GM made.

2. Look for a casting number on the block and post it here. Most of the time you'll find it next to the distributor or just above the starter; on service replacement blocks you may have to look on the driver's side behind/below the throttle linkage.

As for items 3 & 4, I will defer to those more experienced with multi-carb setups. Has the timing/dwell been checked recently? Are the wipers still vacuum-driven; and if so, do they work?

Do we get to see pictures of your new toy? grin

edit: Are we shaking down the new guys for parts now? :p grin


1955 First Series GMC 250 1-Ton Panel
In the Gallery
Mr. Hedgehog - Follow the build
If you can't laugh at yourself, I'll laugh at you.
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Reverse is down and to the left, next to second, which is really first I guess when you consider how low the granny gear is.

I'll take some photos tonight and post with engine numbers.

One more question. There is a lot of play, more than there should be I think, in the steering wheel when there is no load, i.e. not turning. Is this most likely from the idler arm or something else?

Hugh

Hugh

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'Bolter
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Order a reprint of the shop manual, it has a detailed section on adjusting the steering box. It will never feel like a rack/pinion setup, but you shouldn't need to "saw" the wheel to keep it in a lane. Rebuild kits are available from many vendors, and they're pretty simple jobs. Just remember to open the steering box over a bucket so you don't have to chase ball bearings all over the shop. :rolleyes:


1955 First Series GMC 250 1-Ton Panel
In the Gallery
Mr. Hedgehog - Follow the build
If you can't laugh at yourself, I'll laugh at you.
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I second the shop manual purchase, you will get great use out of it.

SHOW US SOME PHOTOS!!!!

smile


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25
1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY!
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
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1. A 53 1/2 ton could have had the sm420 granny box or the 3 speed on the column.
2. 54 engine should be a 235, can be determined by checking the numbers. Inliners.org has a good tech page on these.
3. Possible, but I doubt it. The cam will have more effect on vacuum. Get a vacuum gauge for a few bucks, excellent low dollar diagnostic tool. Instructions are at Vacuum gauge tuning .
4. The exhaust noise you're hearing is the nature of the beast. GM sixes are known for a blap-blap-blap on the opposite of acceleration. Unburnt fuel is ignited in the exhaust manifold.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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As for the vacuum advance,pull the line and the brass fitting off the carb it's attached to.The holes in the carb base which supply the vacuum are very small. They were gummed up on my 50. After cleaning the holes and the fitting out my advance worked fine.

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I'll check on the port. I had removed the compression fitting at the base of the carb and the line to the valve is clean. I'll check the carb itself.

Hugh

Joined: Oct 2001
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One thing to remember is that the distributor uses ported vacuum, so there should be none at idle, but if you open the throttle a little some advance should kick in.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
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Don't jump into messing with the steering box before you check the front end. More likely you have a lot of play in your tierod ends and idler arm. If they are the original design hurry and replace them with the new ones before one falls off and makes your truck go in two directions at once.

There is a tech tip on this site.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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hpalmer,

As suggested above, check the tie-rod ends, king pins, and steering arm/rod. Also, if you think there is looseness in the steering box, first try the adjustments given in the Shop Manual (they might seem complicated but are quite easy - get a small fish scale from Walmart).

In 1954, if a 1/2 ton truck came with the 4-speed transmission (from the factory) I think the steering column did not have the two bolt holes for the three-speed shifter collar (mine does not have the holes). I do not know if this was the case in 1953.

As mentioned above, the backfiring could be from incorrect timing, a bad vacuum advance mechanism, or bad vacuum line from the carb to the vacuum advance mechanism (sometimes people closed off the vacuum with an incorrectly installerd carb-to-insulator gasket), a leak in your exhaust line (anywhere between the head and the tailpipe, a poorly adjusted carb, or a carb with a bad float mechanism (dripping gas into the intake at all times). There are probably other reason but the ones above are ones I have experienced (and solved) in my two trucks over the past two years. One truck had a single carb/exhaust and the other had dual carbs/exhausts. Luckily I had a lot of spare parts and patience.

Good luck,
Tim

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It could be an inproperly installed gasket as I'm getting no vacuum on the front carb and 14" on the rear. The port appears to be open. The front carb also pulls less air in at all throttle points than the back. The back makes the standard hiss while the front if very quiet.

Hugh

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The port appears to be open in the front carb, that shows no vacuum and doesn't operate the vacuum advance. The valve isn't sticking and is clear to the manifold???

The back carb shows 14"s and operates the vacuum advance. I'm lost at this point.

Hugh

The number on the Engine is 3836848 GM28
I didn't see it on the inline site, but I'll keep looking. (O.K. I confirmed it is a 235, which matches that I was told it was a 54)

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Hey, another Chicago stovebolter! Welcome, I was starting to think I was the only one! I have a 53 stepside as well that I bought in March. What part of Chicago area are you from?

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I live in Wayne, which is just North and East of Saint Charles.

Any good recomendations on mechanics appropriate for our rides?

Hugh

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Is there a block-off plate under the front carb? Sometimes that extra carb is just for show.

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I can see into the manifold. I must be missing something as it just doesn't make sense. The first carb is the same age but much cleaner inside and draws much less air but I can't see any reason for that right now.

Hugh

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If you have them off anyway, can you switch them and see if things change? If now the rear carb works better you know it is the carb that is the problem.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
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H palmer, I live about 25 miles south of you. two 53's in the same area, I am sure we will cross paths someday!

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Well if you are ever in Wayne drop by.

It looks like the mechanic 1 block from my house has a lot of older car experience so I'm going to give him a shot.

Hugh

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email me his name or number, I need someone to change out the rear end gears to get more out of the 350 the previous owner put in. At 50 mph its whining...and going to 4:10 should get me easily into almost highway speeds. Thanks


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