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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 | I might need to snug up a door gap-might add to the step but adding metal to the door is another option-I've heard of it being done..and also welding a welding rod to the edge..concerned about burning and warping steel with a MIG.
anyone have any experience with it?
Keith | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 339 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 339 | Yep, I did on both doors, but My reason was to shorten the door rather then to extend it...My gaps were too tight... It was necessary to grind the door edge off to where there was approximately 1/2 inch gap, then closing the desired gap with a mig welder...I had NO warpage, but that was due to using two 1/4" X 1 1/2" X 36" pieces of bar copper for heat sinks...It amounts to a lot of work, but necessary for desired door lines... As You know good door lines and fits were not priority when Our bolts were manufactured...Bill B | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Depending on how much you have to add it's preferable to weld a strip of sheetmetal same thickness as the door to the edge and then grind it down to the size you need.
I'm about to do the very same thing, but with a TIG welder.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 9 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 9 | I did both shorten and lengthen using 1/8" dia. welding rod. I used MIG to tack in place and TIG to complete welding on front and back using SILICON BRONZE rod. It takes less heat than steel rod and worked very well. (just take your time and move around a lot)I learned about this rod from Ron Covell.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Another trick for keeping heat down is to use .030 wire form your MIG... if you're using a TIG. Also try using an air gun instead of a wet rag to cool. Short beads and skipping around is mandatory.
Last edited by Czechman; 08/05/2008 9:52 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 | Yup..all good advise..I like the 1/8 welding rod for filler idea personally..From memory I seem to rember rods being coated with something..are they available uncoated?
Likewise some thick sheetmetal sounds like a winner also..rather than just the buildup you'd get from the weld.
Keith
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Yup..all good advise..I like the 1/8 welding rod for filler idea personally..From memory I seem to rember rods being coated with something..are they available uncoated? You should be able to get 1/8" uncoated steel rods intended for gas or TIG at a welding supply house... but you may have to buy 10 pounds. Or you might consider stopping by a welding shop and see if they'll sell you a couple pieces. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | All good advice.. I have done it with a TIG welder, works good. Take your time, and if you have to add more than one pass of weld bead add about 1/2" or so of metal the thickness of the whole door edge, this helps to be a heat sink and reduce warpage. Then trim off what you don't need, and sneak up on it with a grinder to get it just right without having to weld any more.
Uncoated welding rods (well a light coper coating) are sold in many sizes for use with a TIG welder, I have some from 0.035" up to about 1/8", and I know bigger is available.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 | When I see something on TV being TIG'd..I say "Ya that's the ticket". Seems like potentially more control with less heat" Was just too expensive for me at the time so I went with the cheapest Lincoln MIG I could find..don't regret it but would love to pick up a TIG someday.
Keith | | |
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