The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Having problems with a 235

I did use the search forum but didn't find anything I could use after an hour of reading.
I have a 56 Chevy truck 3200 w/235 and 3 speed column shift. About a year and a half ago I had a knock that came on suddenly and I pulled over and towed the truck home. After pulling the pan the #3 rod bearing was toast. I priced a crank kit/rebuild kit and decided it was more cost effective to just build a small block V8 for the truck and install it. I located a small block and started working on it but missed driving the truck in the meantime. I saw an ad for a 235 engine on Craigslist and bought it. I swapped it in this weekend but I'm having a little trouble with it. I dropped in the dist. assembly (eyeballed it) and it started and ran on starter fluid only. The fuel was bad so I drained the tank and refilled it with fresh fuel. Then it started and would run on the gas but only if you gave it throttle. I figured since the gas was bad the carb. may have a clogged jet or something. I removed the carb. and cleaned out the jets and float bowl. They weren't real dirty or anything that I could see. I reassembled the carb. and installed it and the engine would start and only run above idle. I'm wondering now if the accel. pump is the problem?
I also messed with the wired thinking I had one crossed or something and really screwed it up (not running at all now). I followed another thread's instructions and pulled the front cylinder (1) spark plug and then set the engine to TDC. Both valve lash clearances had play so I'm thinking that they are on the compression stroke (valves closed)
I pulled the dist. cap off and the rotor was a little off so I moved the dist. assembly a little so the rotor was on the next contact under the cap. Then I made sure that wire went to the #1 spark plug. I then went to the next wire in a clockwise rotation on the cap following the firing order and re-routed the plug wires. It trys to start but no go. I'm getting a little frustrated over here... Any ideas?
Thanks, Kyle

If the motor tends to stop dead when you are trying to start it, the timing is off. I would suggest setting the distributor so the points just open when the pointer is at the steel ball, then retard the timing by about another few degees and that should be good to start. I would definitely stay away from the starter fluid,

Sorry I forgot to mention it has electronic ignition so no points. It's a petronix kit.
I went to the library and found a motor manual for autos 55-64 and copied the page for timing etc.. for 235 engines. I noticed the 58 and up had a timing set not to the BB but 5 degrees BTDC and I noticed my replacement engine had a hose going from the valve cover to the oil bath air cleaner so I'm thinking it's from a later model truck not a 56 like mine (I didn't have any breather hose in my valve cover or air cleaner) Okay so I double checked the engine wires and dist. and it's set up correctly and should fire but it didn't and it was backfiring etc. I turned the dist. a little counterclockwise and it got better so I keep moving a little and retrying and it finally started and run halfway decent. It still would only run if I had the idle up high so I though maybe the carb. was an issue still. I decided to feel around the intakes with my finger and the rear intake runner where it bolts to the head has a leak. I used the metal sleeves but still it's leaking a little. I'm going to try replacing the gaskets and see if it stops running bad. I think I have it licked.

rue, I have the same problem with my 1954 235, so I'll be interested in how yours turns out. Mine won't idle. Once started it runs at maybe 12 or 1500 RPM, and I can't get it to go any lower.

Since I put a new fuel pump on it I'm going to try a fuel pressure regulator. I've heard several people say that a fuel pressure regulator has solved a lot of problems for them, including leakage. The manual I looked at said that the float and needle valve assembly can't resist more than about 3.5 psig. I'm afraid that the new fuel pump is putting out 5-7 psig.

I'm still having problems finding the right kit for my Rochester B. It is a later model and the connection from the link to the accelerator pump is different from the older styles. Naturally, my flaps say there is one kit. Tried it. It isn't the one for my carb.

Yes, my Holley Weber conversion is on hold. I got the aluminum plate yesterday and am now looking for a decent machine shop.

Mine has a pretty good leak as it sucks your finger if you run it above the runner where it attaches to the head. I picked up a gasket set today to replace it. I re-used the old ones because they were recently installed before the old engine gave up the ghost but maybe it's too compressed or something. Air bypassing the throttle plate will increase the idle big time.
I have a couple Rochester B's laying around if you need a linkage. I copied the Motor book of carbs or whatever from the 50's at the library that covered the B carbs. If I can find someone with a scanner maybe I can upload it here or email it to you.

I think I know what you mean about the motor stopping dead when you crank it. It's like rrrrr, rrrrr, clunk, rrrrr, rrrrr, clunk. That clunk is like someone stops the engine cold while you're cranking. What causes that?

I've got a Rochester Carburetor manual that covers them all, but the coverage on the B models is only a couple of pages.

My problem isn't really with the linkage. I need to find a kit that has the same accelerator pump piston hookup as the one I have.

Interestingly enough, the casting number is 7025461, IIRC, which would indicate that it was not original for the engine it came off of.

I think I found a good kit at the Carburetor Doctor. They have four different kits for the Bs.

I was just thinking that I used to use a spray bottle filled with water to look for vacuum leaks. If there is a leak somewhere and you squirt it, there should be a noticeable increase in RPM until the water dries up.

That's a lot safer, I guess, than the technique I use: open an unlit propane torch near intake/carburetor gaskets to see if the RPMs increase.

The stopping dead during cranking can be caused by timing that is too far advanced.

If I remember right use spray carb cleaner to check for leaks (instead of the water), results in an rpm increase which means there is a leak.

This is a super old post but I thought I'd share what happened and the fix for others.

The leak was indeed between the intake and head. I tried to just replace the gasket but I think the head or the intake is warped. I could have pulled the manifold and straight edged it and had a machine shop machine it flat but instead I just added another gasket (doubled) that one port or whatever and tightened it back up. Problem solved. Adjusted down idle and timing and it was good to go again.