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#436409 07/27/2008 11:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 112
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 112
I thought I'd drill out the hinges on my 46 panel and install
next size larger pins...but it looks like the hinges have to be taken off body to make a nice straight drive through...hinges
are too close to the body to get a drill near them...Now here's
my problem..How in heck do you get those three large beveled
cap screw bolts out of the body that hold the hinges on...
I've tried everything...but heat...and I really didn't want to
do that...Any suggestions..Does any body make these hinges?


1946 chevy 1/2 ton panel
1937 ford coupe
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 106
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 106
Are these the rear door hinges or front?

Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 112
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 112
I should have mention in my first post...front doors hinges..


1946 chevy 1/2 ton panel
1937 ford coupe
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 106
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 106
You might check with Jim Carter, he may have them or some old ones you can get.

O
OLTrucks
Unregistered
OLTrucks
Unregistered
O
New front door hinges in stock (as of 07/28/2008) and come with new bolts @ Jim Carter

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 142
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
4 Offline
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 142
I would not attempt to drill, and never remove the hinge from the cab. (Only if you absolutely need to) I have removed many doors/pins with success as follows: On the upper hinge, it can be done by yourself if you use a one handed sledge hammer with a long punch, undersized, and then graduating to a punch that is just undersized to the pin. I always soak the hinges for about a week prior to even attempting to remove. Unfortunately, and since the heads of the pins are on the upper end of the hinge, it is difficult and compromising to use a hand sledge and punch upside-down. If really stubborn, I then use my small air cut off tool with a 3" wheel and cut the head of the pin flush with the top of the hinge causing little damage if any to the hinge. By removing the head I can then use gravity to my advantage by driving the pin from the top of the hinge toward the bottom. As for the lower hinge pin, I have removed some with luck, with the hand sledge and punch swinging upside-down, but you are limited on your swing with the running board. If you are removing the running boards anyway, remove them first prior to the removal of the door pins. You can then swing your sledge with the strength of Thor.
It is always advisable to have a helper hold the long drift punch with a pair of Vise-Grips so you can use two hands if needed. Again, if not removing the running boards, or if stubborn, cut the head and drive if down and out. Hope this helps. P.S. Use safety goggles, I was wearing safety glasses, not goggles, and had a chip of US Made steel imbedded into my right eye. I thought it was dirt, but the next day after I awoke, it was still there and boy did it hurt! When I went to the doctor, they had to remove the chip with a large syringe. Also note that good o’l USA made Steel will rust in your eyes, just as on your truck. Be careful and good luck.


Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

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