| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (treegrower, 68ironhead, GRNHydra, Nhluvstruck, 55shaker, MickeyP, elhippie64, David Bush, 1 invisible),
43
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,090 Posts1,056,016 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 18 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 18 | Just bought a 54 Chevy 3100 half ton truck. I haven't worked on one of these for forty years but I think it should run smoother than it does. It feels as though it has a fouled plug or wire but that is all new. The plugs are burning rich. The following was done while in neutural and parked. It runs rough at any RPM and because of a possible bad accelerator pump it has a dead spot when accelerated. It has the Hydra-matic transmission. It has a B Rochester carburetor which appears to be recently rebuilt. It has a new electronic ignition using Autolite 847 sparkplugs. It was also converted to 12 volt and most of the wiring has been changed though pretty sloppy. I plan on using this as a project and will make changes where needed but I would like to drive it for now. Scott [email protected]Thank You
Last edited by brownie1; 07/27/2008 4:07 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | Welcome to the 'bolt!
I'd check a few things here. Rough idle could be as simple as an idle screw adjustment on the "B". That's the screw that is at the base of the carb facing the head. Turn it clockwise until the engine runs rough (rougher) then back it out until it smooths out.
Also, check the obvious things, firing order (distributor wiring to the plugs) and timing. Is the air cleaner element clean?
If none of these things reveal a problem I'd do a compression test next.
Hopefully there'll be some more suggestions coming soon. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | brownie1,
My first check would be the valves. This would entail a compression check following recommended procedures, then a visual of the rockers and top end. Most carburetion issues involve a certain cirucit in the carburetor and appear at a idle, mid range/high range but usually not through the entire RPM range.
A vacuum leak is another suspect. Make sure the vacuum hose to the distributor is connected. If you squirt carburetor cleaner, propane or anything that will combust into the cracks and crevices around the carb base and manifold to head area you might hear the idle pickup and the engine smooth out. This indicates a vacuum leak in that area.
If the carburetor was rebuilt incorrectly it could have problems too. Sooty plugs are a sign of too much fuel. This could be a float that is set too high or a powervalve that is covered and in the 'go mode' all the time.
Lots of things to check! The compression test would be my starting point...it should pick up a hard mechanical malfunction.
Stuart
Last edited by atomarc; 07/25/2008 3:36 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | If the plugs are full of soot, maybe they are too cold. Before I would do anything that involved a lot of work, I would put in a new set of the correct heat range plugs and drive it pretty hard for several miles. Also, how does the gas smell. If it's stale, you are risking valves sticking, as well as running badly. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 | Check the compression . If that is not right it will never run right. Cleon | | |
| |
| |