Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (Hotrod Lincoln, carbking, tclederman, Bill Hanlon, 49choptop, Guitplayer, John L., Otto Skorzeny),
125
guests, and
4
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,042 Posts1,055,501 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#43503 07/27/2004 6:31 AM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 336 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 336 | OK, I searched the archives - didn't find anything about this; the temperature sensor (mechanical, connected to original guage thru thin copper line) has a square "nut" that holds it into the head. This "nut" almost looks like a normal flare nut that you would use to connect a flared tube to a union etc. The weird thing about it looks like it has been filed square. It looks to me like it's just got to leak. Is this the way it's supposed to be? If so, how do you install the sender so it doesn't leak? When I removed it from the head, it looked someone had wrapped it in rubber from an inner tube. That didn't work too well...
BTW: 235 ci 6 in 54 1 series
Gord
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | |
#43504 07/27/2004 1:44 PM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Fran &/or Gord,
Try a search in this forum on "temperature sender" and you will find some info. I think NAPA has the adapter as Balkamp part #701-1542. Also, Jim Carter and other vendors sell an adapter.
Tim | | |
#43505 07/27/2004 6:06 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | The temperature sender is a flare type connection and does not seal at the threads. If it is leaking check the seat in the head for cracks or rust, and check the surface of the sender for irregularities.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#43506 07/28/2004 3:43 AM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 336 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 336 | Josiah, after looking at it more closely, I can see you are absolutely correct. The sender itself is flared. The seat of the adapter in the head looks pretty rough, so I will have to clean it up - maybe use a large drill bit to face it. All the weird sqare "nut" does is hold it in. When installing it, do you put any sort of sealant on it? The bulb looks fairly fragile - how much torque would you recommend?
Thanks for your help,
Gord
Gord
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | |
#43507 07/28/2004 7:14 AM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Mine is about as tight as a spark plug, no sealant, and it doesn't leak. You could use a very small amount of blue RTV and it might help.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#43508 07/28/2004 8:03 PM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,752 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,752 | The nut that holds the sensor bulb in place can't be replaced, but the adapter is available at NAPA and elsewhere as a separate part. If yours is bad,just replace it. A little RTV might help, but with a good adapter, the bulb should have a leak-free fit without any sealer.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | |
#43509 07/29/2004 5:35 AM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 336 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 336 | Thanks, guys. The adapter is basically frozen in the head. The valve cover gets in the way if you want to put a socket or box end wrench on it. Using an open end wrench to remove it would just lead to bleeding knuckles, bad language and a rounded adapter! I was able to clean it up using a 1/2" drill (I just carefully put it in and twisted it with my fingers). So I will put the sender back, install the coolant and see what happens. If it leaks, I will take it out and try a bit of RTV...
Gord
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | |
|
|
