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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
1953 Chevy Truck...

but the engine is a 55-57 block... (the many juries around the net
are still out on if it is a 235 or 261)

so...

on the tag, which I have read is not a part number, but
an "application tag" it has this:

7013029

B8 39(the 39 is rotated 90 degrees)

on the side of the body of the carb:

Rochester

GM carburetor

made in the usa

patents appld for

-----

on the very bottom of the carb, that part that would be mounted to
the intake... this number appears:

130290 ( I'm pretty sure the 1 is a one, or a REALLY straight scratch)

at the bottom of the carb, but on the side is this number:

4522 and nearby is the number 37

and vertically... is the number 036 on the body.

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 45
G
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G Offline
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Posts: 45
The 7013029 number is what will tell you what it is. According to Holander, it is a 50-62 235 truck carb. Napa/Echlin kit #2-5158 should do the trick.

As to 235 or 261, The important differences are internal, namely pistons, rods and weep holes in the head/block, so unless you are going to tear it completely down, don't worry about it. If it doesn't have the 2 "captain's bars" cast into the block above the starter, its a 235. The blocks are completely different castings, so I doubt that they could have the same casting numbers regardless of reference materials. If someone physically has in their possession one of each with the same casting numbers, then I will believe.

What are the numbers stamped on the block behind the distributor? The letters should tell for sure what it is (US made).

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Socket Breaker
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There is another Stovebolt user in here.. Cosmos, who says his 261 does not have the Captain's Bar's either.

I also emailed Jim Carter's truck parts with all my numbers and info... and they also say it is a 261.

But, about the carb... I read that the 261 had a different carb from the 235.. does anyone know anythign about this?

Thank you everyone.

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Posts: 45
G
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G Offline
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The numbers on your website are all casting numbers. I need the stamped code that is on the machined pad just to the rear of the distributor. You may need to use some sandpaper to see it. I have seen some later engines that didn't have this, but they were all 1960's vintage. Yes, I am aware that some 261's didn't have the bars, but these are the exception, not the rule. The difference between model B carbs is the throttle bore diameter.
216 is 1-1/2"
235 is 1-9/16"
261 is 1-11/16"
mouting bolt spacing on the 216 is about 2-3/4" where as the 235 and 261 are about 3"

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Socket Breaker
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I will look for that machined pad tomorrow in the daylight hours... and get back to you.

Thank you.

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Socket Breaker
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to the immediate right of the where the distributor goes into the block(looking at it from the passenger side of the engine compartment), I found these numbers/letters:

TI00IA

or maybe those 0's are o's ? smile

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C
ODSS President
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I do NOT know whether I have a 235 or 261, going by what looks like the original color paint of the engine (l. blue) I'm guessing 235, no plans to takeoff the head to know for sure, truck runs great and takes me from here to there, I just love my straight six with Fentons, 40" glasspacks, dual exhaust!


~ Cosmo
1949 Chevy Half Ton
Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities.
"...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes
"If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer


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You mean to the left of the distributor??

"A" is for 57-62 car 235 only. If the block does not have the 3 threaded studs cast in the sides of the block (like most V8's) then it is a '57 235 from a car. 58-62 blocks have provision for side motor mounts. Be aware, that 57 and earlier blocks that originally used solid lifters cannot use hydraulics because the lifter bores are not horizontally drilled for oiling. If it does have the drilling, then either cam can be used. Solids work better in these older engines anyway.

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Socket Breaker
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Yeah to the left of the distributor...

sorry Cosmo, I misunderstood ya...

thanks for the information people.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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