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#431656 07/11/2008 5:55 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
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This is the barn truck, it's a 1955 2nd. series 6400. I'm not yet sure but so far I think it has a 261. I took a new battery, keys, and all the other parts and stuff out to try to light the fires again. I got it to crank over but no start yet. The lights turn on and it cranks. I think the problem may be that I just plugged the wires back into the ignition wrong because I can't remember where most of them were. Not smart. I think that the wires coming from the passenger side of the firewall are the important ones. Which wires have to be connected right for the truck to get spark? May be the first stupid question ever. Anyway, here are some pics of my dirty, mouse pee smelling interior.
http://photobucket.com/BriteFab

Gardner #431685 07/11/2008 11:52 AM
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You need one hot wire going to the coil. This should come from one of the two terminals on the ignition switch, (the third terminal is always hot). assuming you have a non starting ignition switch, and the starter button is on the floor.
Then one wire from coil to distributor
and lastly you need a coil and plug wires.

That should be all the wires you need to make it run.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Grigg #431764 07/11/2008 5:51 PM
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Thanks Grigg, I should have it running sometime this evening or tomarow.

Gardner #431788 07/11/2008 6:58 PM
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You might want to check the compression. If the rings are stuck, you probably won't get it to fire. Put a squirt of oil in each cylinder then try starting.

Bruce


My Trucks
Stuff I Collect
If it doesn't matter if you win or loose.......why do they keep score?
55 1st suburban #431871 07/11/2008 11:19 PM
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jdl Offline
'Bolter
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I don't see any mention of it above but did you change the points/condenser and put in new sparkplugs and wires?


Jordan D. Long

1954 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

And some more pictures
Photobucket

I got a 'Possum Pickup... Now I'm the Roadkill King!!! Anyone want to make some Stovebolt Stew?
jdl #431901 07/12/2008 12:38 AM
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I installed a new cap and roter, my new plugs were longer than the old ones. I tried both. Should I take the carb and intake manifold off and get any residual fuel from the tank cleaned out? It looks like there is some fuel down in there. I also put a new coil in and have a piece of fuel line running from a small cup into the fuel pump. I don't think the fuel pump sucked much fuel out of the cup while I was cranking the engine.

Gardner #431925 07/12/2008 1:54 AM
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jdl Offline
'Bolter
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I wouldn't use any fuel that is in the tank, clean it all out. Also, if you didn't change or file the points they will not spark and therefore not let the coil send spark to the plugs. Sorry to bring it up again but you didn't mention it yet.


Jordan D. Long

1954 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

And some more pictures
Photobucket

I got a 'Possum Pickup... Now I'm the Roadkill King!!! Anyone want to make some Stovebolt Stew?
jdl #431946 07/12/2008 2:47 AM
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Don't worry about the intake.
don't use any of the gas in the tank, drain and discard it.
To get it running feed it from a small fuel can, just a rubber hose stuck in it and on the inlet to the fuel pump. Or straight to the carb with the fuel can on the fender or roof.

Don't worry about changing the points. chances are it was running when it was parked, so they must be at least serviceable.
It is a good idea to scrape the corrosion off them, but don't remove them to do it. Just stick the end of a small pocket ruler, or an ignition file, and scrape the crud off. Then wipe them with a bill, $1 should do the trick. If it were a ford I use at least a $20 bill, as they need a little more bribing to get running.

Once you get it running then you can do a complete and proper tuneup if you like.

You may or may not have to play with/clean the carburetor, but it is worth a try as is first.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Gardner #432254 07/13/2008 4:40 AM
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My friend John changed the points and condensor, we put new spark plugs in and I rigged up a bigger gas can so there was plenty of fuel flowing into the pump. She finally fired off after some cranking and ran, but really rough. When John adjusted the air fuel mixture she purred like a kitten. I am very impressed at how well the truck runs after sitting for so long. Now she fires on the first couple cranks. So far I have put in a new battery, points, condensor, plugs, cap, rotor, coil, oil, topped off the radiator and gear oil. Now I am pulling the master cylinder to be rebuilt. Once we get the rear brakes un-stuck and fluid put back into the system, we'll probably have some other challenge I guess. But she's soon to be back in service. And washed.

Last edited by Gardner; 07/20/2008 8:34 AM.
Gardner #432332 07/13/2008 3:43 PM
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if you haven't already done so you would be ahead of the game to replace all the brake lines and rebuild/replace wheel cylinders and springs. I had done mine about 20 years ago(didn't replace springs) some of the wheel cylinders were still free others were frozen adjusters also some frozen some free some of the return springs were not in very good shape when i took them apart a few weeks ago. plus some of the wheel cylinders had a lot of crud in them that would contaminate the system. fix or adjust the emergency/parking brake first so you have back up in case something fails.

I've never been able find find anything that nice shape barn find around here good luck with your project.

Last edited by kb3csw; 07/13/2008 3:50 PM.

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