The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Oil pan gaskets, I'm stumped -- need help

My first attempt at resealing an oil pan on a 270 just fell on its face. As I imagine you've already guessed, the two thick piece of cork for the ends slipped inside as I tightened it down and I had a nice oil mess. I have 6 hours tomorrow to get this thing running, even if it's only for a few days. I don't know if I can find an oil pan gasket locally but if I can I'm going for it.

I need help on how to install this. I'm only familiar with the rubber seals at the ends. How do I keep the cork in place as I maneuver the pan into place and tighten it down?

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

jerry
almost afloat in salt lake.

ps, for those of you who have been following the saga and have given so much help, the harmonic balancer arrived today (thanks to Mother Trucker, Damper Dudes, Bill Miles, Rob English, and Fed Ex), the radiator which arrived late last week was recored (thanks to Oly, Kelly, UPS, the local radiator artist, and a few new acquaitances) and everything went back together like it should (with the exception of the oil pan). We've come so far. I don't want to give up on this now.

Clean everything back off and really get it dry. Try using brake clean to really clean it. The on the ends us a weatherstrip glue and let them set up. They should be dry and in place before you try to install pan. Some of the Permatex glues are all so good to use. Just use one that sets up and drys in a short time for the end pieces. For the sides, silicon or you choice of glues. Joe

Permatex the gasket on pan. Some in-liner said he uses string thru about 3 or 4 holes down the side of pan to hold gasket on too. Still uses gasket cement. don't tie string too tight to deform gasket, but enough to secure and can cut and pull it out before too tight and bolts started in holes. Don't the cork fit over the rubber ends? Would think rubber would have to go into pan too. More gasket cement?

I have using sewing thread to hold the gasket in place. Tie the gasket on in four or five places. It is so thin you can install the pan and leave the thread on..

I found that it is important to keep the gaskets and seals from getting squeezed out as you tighten things down. The one product that I have found to work the best is Gasgacinch( http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1074 ). This stuff works just like contact cement and must dry to the touch on both surfaces to be put together. It will keep the gaskets in place and throughout the life of the engine, keep the seal from "oozing" out like the silicon products will do.
With the thicker gaskets on the end of the GMC oilpans, if you put a LIGHT coat of Permatex Form-a-Gasket.( http://ken-co.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=3D )on the surface that the pan contacts, the pan will slide nice on the gasket and not try to push the gasket out of the way and still seal up nicely. The Gasgacinch can be bought at your local motorcycle repair shop (these guys use it to put engine cases together) and the Form-a-gasket can be found at the local auto parts store.
Hope this helps.

For sticking the cork gasket to the pan, I've had good results with both 3M weatherstrip adhesive (yellow) and Permatex hi-tack red gasket dope. I use black silicon for the rubber end pieces.

Thanks Fred,

are the end pieces pretty well set-up before you move the pan into place? The RTV I used was slimy and the cork just didn't want to stay bent. Touch anything and they were out of place. jerry

Like the guys have said, get gaskets glued to pan and let set up good then put more sealer on the surface that will contact the engine.It may help to let the sealer get tacky before the end seals will stick and hold.
.If you can lay a carboard tube as a weight to hold the seals down untill they cure, that may help.