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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,106 Posts1,056,214 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 2 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 2 | Hi, this is my first post here , although I have been reading this forum for a while. I am installing a T5 from an 85 S-10 into a 56 Chevy (wagon, with a 235). I have cut the input shaft end, lengthened the splines, cut the bearing retainer to match the length of the old three speed. I used an Astro van clutch disc and the stock pressure plate. I can't get enough clearance with pedal depressed (even with all the factory linkage adjusted). Do I need a small block pressure plate or should I try a different clutch disc, or get a custom one with the vega hub? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You may have the wrong TO brg. Chev. used 2 diff. clutches. The older style had the fingers in about the center of the pressure plate & they were parralel to the plate surface. It uses a long TO brg. with a coller between the brg. & groove. The newer style has the fingers protruding forward & come to the outer edge of the cover. These are often called beehive clutches. They use a short TO brg. where the brg is right in front of the groove. Either clutch will work but must have the correct TO brg. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Have you bolted the trans up to the engine, with the disc on the shaft, without the pressure plate, to be sure the disc is not being pushed into the flywheel?
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 130 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 130 | hello petey66,, i had the same trouble . i got it to work by cutting back the splines a little further . it dosen't take much binding to grip on that disc. now some have also spaced the tranny a little away from the bell housing to releive the pushing of the tranny input on the disc,, but i think if the splines are cut back far enough, the input shaft won't push on the disc. i think from what you have posted so far that you are close to getting it. good luck, and i hope this helps.
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| | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 | I did all of the spline cutting etc to my T 5 install behind my 250 in my 52 Burb, and mine wouldn't work either. I'll tell you what does work is a 1/2 inch alumunun spacer between the bellhousing and tranny. Now I have to replace the input shaft on the tranny since I cut it all up and shorted it. Much simpler to machine a spacer.!!!! | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 2 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 2 | Thanks everyone for the input. I am taking a couple days away from the car (have to work some doubles to pay for stuff) but when I get back to it I will pull it out and check to see if it is binding on the splines. Hopefully my next post will be a better one. Thanks. | | |
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