The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235/261 and 12V conversion, which flywheel to use?

I'm putting a 261 into a '53 1/2 ton and doing the 12V conversion at the same time. I'll use the original 216 bellhousing with the new engine but have both 6V and 12V flywheel, starters, and clutch to choose from. I realize the starters and flywheels can't be inter-mixed. However, will the later 12V flywheel and starter fit the earlier bellhousing or should I stick with the 6V parts? Both were truck foot starter types.

Thanks in Advance,

-Ed

They have volts?

Bruce

You are kind of at an interesting crossroad here. I believe that you can go with either system. A 12v starter with a 12v system is probably better than a 6v starter on 12 volts.

Ed,

Yes, the later flywheel (and clutch assembly) that works with a 12 volt starter will bolt up inside your 216 clutch housing.

I recall having a problem with the clutch throw-out bearing but I do not remember if I used the longer or shorter throw-out bearing.

I went to 12v when I first put a 1960 (12v) 261 in my 54 Suburban. I am now swapping back to 6v.

Tim

Hi. I have the same dilemma. I have a 261 from a '59 2-ton truck to replace the original 216 in my '49. Patrick's recommends using the 6V starter on the newer 12V system. Has anyone done this without any problems? Unless I hear otherwise, I'm planning to stick with the original flywheel, clutch, starter, and throw-out bearing from the '49.

Good Luck!
Dan M.

A 10" flywheel/clutch will fit, but you may have to do a little grinding inside the bellhousing for a 11" flywheel.

At least that's what I had to do with my 48 car bellhousing.
Not a lot of grinding and well worth the trouble to go with the larger flywheel and 12V starter.

You don't really want the small 216 flywheel/clutch on a 261 motor in a loaded truck...

There are 2 types of clutches to choose from.
If you go with the larger 11" flywheel get the 'Flat Diaphragm' type clutch with the many flat levers on the cover, just like the original was.
The 'Raised Diaphragm' 3-lever type 11" clutch is too large and will not fit the 216 bell housing.

I went that route and it works ok except the timing ball location is different for the 216 which renders a timing light useless.

I would keep original flywheel and starter. I had 6V starter on 12V for years and as long as you don't grind on it for extended periods of time it will give no trouble. Truck will actually start much easier as it spins over faster. Now when I went to Hydra-Matic with solenoid starter, I found a 12V solenoid as they told me that the bendix would hit flywheel teeth too hard using a 6V solenoid on 12V. Bottom line is the 6v starter motor will be fine on 12V. A solenoid is a little different story. Makes no difference on a foot stomper starter.

Not to worry about the timing marks.
Todays gas has more octane than the gas at the pumps when the shop manuals were written....
The 216 in 1948 had 6.5:1 compression ratio - the 235 had 6.62:1 !
If it were available, 87-93 octane gas would have been a bit of a waste on those engines and still is today.
Advancing the timing to match the octane mix of the gas goes a long way.

If you time to the outdated timing specs of the manual you will run too rich and get unburned gas popping in the exhaust when decelerating.
Always time your engine for the gas you have in your tank and as lean as possible.
The 'advance just before you get ping under max. load' timing method always works and tunes the engine were it runs ideally.
No timing light is needed unless you want to take notes.
The manuals do mention this method, when using gas with a different octane rating...